Duck Pond Redneckery
- Thread starter Duck
- Start date
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Did what work? The ring terminal?
I don't know because those fenders are like 16 gauge steel and bolted in 8 places to a big heavy flat internal frame type thing that's bolted to the axle. That ground was probably a redundancy.
The way I'm doing it will have even more redundancies.
Bare metal, star washers on both sides of the heat-shrink ring terminal, and swimming in dielectric grease.
What people don't realize is there are 100's of grounds on trucks and cars. People talk like there is only one!!!!! Damn Mongolians. Everything everywhere is grounded to the frame. There isn't just one wire running around. My little computer board that I built and posted for the project I'm working on has 30 grounds. The board would have to be sawed in half for some to fail.
Electric Chicken
Well-Known Member
I put the emphasis on the wrong words when I first read this statement.
That's because if one of the two major ones fail, things go all jabberwocky. Those being the battery to the frame and the motor to the frame. Doesn't matter how much of the rest of the chassis is grounded if the rubber isolated motor loses it's ground. And many of those 100's of grounds you mention are for very isolated parts of the wiring harness. When a plastic taillight assembly looses it's ground, the other x99 grounds are meaningless. On your circuit, I bet those 30 grounds are on only 1 or 2 separate traces, leaving lots of redundancy.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
When the engine to frame ground rusted in half on my old Dodge, it's headlights came on really dim. All 4 of them. I turned on the headlights and the engine died.
ironpony
Professional Pot-Stirrer
Wait 'till those "redundant grounds" make a nice little ground loop... software guy will be wishin' things were only all Jabberwocky.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
They all go to the same place.Wait 'till those "redundant grounds" make a nice little ground loop... software guy will be wishin' things were only all Jabberwocky.
My tractor lights are going to be grounded in 3 places. If any of them fail, the juice has two other points to ground to the machine.
I'm using a house electrical outlet box as a junction box under the seat. I don't want my connections to be permanent because I'll probably want to paint the fenders some day. So to keep them dry they're going to be in a box. No crimp connectors either. Just wire nuts.
Software? On a 1946 Ford farm tractor?
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Yellow for the forward lights, white for the rear facing lights for when the tractor behind me has his high beams on, and the grounds are on the bottom. Red wire for the orange strobe is singular so didn't need to pass through the box.
If those damn rodents eat these wires I'm going to trap them and burn them alive.
If those damn rodents eat these wires I'm going to trap them and burn them alive.
ironpony
Professional Pot-Stirrer
A ground loop forms when you get a current between two points that are supposedly at ground potential. The current sets up a voltage difference - drives electronics totally nuts, and yields some of the most berserk electrical behavior you'll ever find.They all go to the same place.
My tractor lights are going to be grounded in 3 places. If any of them fail, the juice has two other points to ground to the machine.
I'm using a house electrical outlet box as a junction box under the seat. I don't want my connections to be permanent because I'll probably want to paint the fenders some day. So to keep them dry they're going to be in a box. No crimp connectors either. Just wire nuts.
The usual fix is to figure out where the loop current is, and then cut the loop.
ironpony
Professional Pot-Stirrer
Try to keep up, wouldja?Software? On a 1946 Ford farm tractor?
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Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
You mean like the service engine soon, service vehicle soon, ABS and "Trac off" lights that have been on for 8 years in my Buick but doesn't throw any codes?
Or maybe the drivers door window that only goes down when it wants to (though thankfully always closes) or the cruise control that works fine at speeds above 30 mph as long as I exceed 50 mph at least once since starting the car?
Or the ignition switch that only works because I paid a nerd to solder a resistor in it to bypass the microchip bullshit?
You mean berserk shit like that?
Yeah I think I'll put that car in here and ground everything to the frame. Even the plastic tail light lenses... I'll f*ing ground them too.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
They're grade 8, so yeah.
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