Duck Pond Redneckery


You mean like the service engine soon, service vehicle soon, ABS and "Trac off" lights that have been on for 8 years in my Buick but doesn't throw any codes?

Or maybe the drivers door window that only goes down when it wants to (though thankfully always closes) or the cruise control that works fine at speeds above 30 mph as long as I exceed 50 mph at least once since starting the car?

Or the ignition switch that only works because I paid a nerd to solder a resistor in it to bypass the microchip bullshit?

You mean berserk **** like that?

Yeah I think I'll put that car in here and ground everything to the frame. Even the plastic tail light lenses... I'll f*ing ground them too. :mad:
Could be...

Hum in an audio system can be caused by a ground loop for example.
 
Could be...

Hum in an audio system can be caused by a ground loop for example.
Well the stereo works fine. Except when I try to turn the volume down. If you touch the knob too clumsily it goes into some menu thing.

But that's Pioneer's tomfoolery, not GM's.
 
New spark plugs, but only threaded halfway in just to keep dust out.

Tomorrow I'm gonna pull 'em all out and crank it over.

Cuz I filled the cylinders with kerosene to free up possibly stuck piston rings which may be the cause of most of the exhaust smoke and oil consumption.

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Obviously an oil change is going to be needed after this. :toothpick:
 
Watch out for fumes after. Not sure what could happen but I'm guessing that whole engine will be sort of like a bomb?
Each of the 4 cylinders is a chemical bomb after the piston draws in gasoline vapors from the carburetor, compresses it and a spark goes off to ignite it..

That's how it works, ya dingbat. o_O

As for the crankcase, the oil cap doubles as the breather vent.
 
New spark plugs, but only threaded halfway in just to keep dust out.

Tomorrow I'm gonna pull 'em all out and crank it over.

Cuz I filled the cylinders with kerosene to free up possibly stuck piston rings which may be the cause of most of the exhaust smoke and oil consumption.

View attachment 39931

Obviously an oil change is going to be needed after this. :toothpick:
kerosene does work, but i had better luck with that Marvel Mystery Oil.
 
To put a belt on this thing I gotta take the whole & #@ing front end off this thing while the engine rests on the floor jack or something. :mad:

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That shaft extending forward from the crankshaft pulley drives the hydraulic pump for the loader.

Here's with the pump removed and the shaft pulled back as far as it'll go:

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:gun3:

I know they have belts that are assembled in pieces, adjustable length belts, but what I don't know is if they can handle a few horsepower, engine heat and the tight bend around the small alternator pulley.

I looked online and it seems they're for belt driven electric motor stuff like table saws and air compressors.
 
To put a belt on this thing I gotta take the whole & #@ing front end off this thing while the engine rests on the floor jack or something. :mad:

View attachment 39936

That shaft extending forward from the crankshaft pulley drives the hydraulic pump for the loader.

Here's with the pump removed and the shaft pulled back as far as it'll go:

View attachment 39937

View attachment 39938

:gun3:

I know they have belts that are assembled in pieces, adjustable length belts, but what I don't know is if they can handle a few horsepower, engine heat and the tight bend around the small alternator pulley.

I looked online and it seems they're for belt driven electric motor stuff like table saws and air compressors.

A quick peek at some of the tractor forums, it would seem that the shaft for the front pump either unscrews (left hand thread) or is a spline connection to the drive disk that mates with the crankshaft pulley. But at the low rpm those things run, and with the minimal electrical loads, one of those adjustable belts might just work.
 
A quick peek at some of the tractor forums, it would seem that the shaft for the front pump either unscrews (left hand thread) or is a spline connection to the drive disk that mates with the crankshaft pulley. But at the low rpm those things run, and with the minimal electrical loads, one of those adjustable belts might just work.
It looks like one piece. Drive disk and shaft. But maybe tomorrow I'll clean it up better with degreaser and Sarah's toothbrush.
Spray the whole engine with diesel fuel first also before using the torch.
Oh, and have someone live stream it on Youtube so we can watch
Quit bein' stupid. :order:
 
A quick peek at some of the tractor forums, it would seem that the shaft for the front pump either unscrews (left hand thread) or is a spline connection to the drive disk that mates with the crankshaft pulley. But at the low rpm those things run, and with the minimal electrical loads, one of those adjustable belts might just work.
I guess I'll just put it in third gear and try turning that pump shaft with a pipe wrench in the direction of normal rotation.

When you're facing the front of the tractor it rotates clockwise. Hopefully the shaft comes out of that collar with the pins in it.

There's supposed to be rubber bushings around those pins that insert into the crankshaft pulley. I can tell at least one is missing and another is damaged.

Hopefully I can find a piece of rubber fuel hose to slice up into replacements.
 
Well I got that pump shaft out. I had to put it in 3rd gear and still had to hold back the whole tractor while I pulled on the pipe wrench.

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I can get a belt in there if I hold the collar against the crank pulley but I can't get the collar totally out of the machine to replace the rubber bushings on those pins.

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The pins look about 3/8" diameter, actually square, not round. And the holes in the pulley look about 3/4". So it definitely needs the bushings replaced. Gonna have to support the engine and pull the front axle off. :mad:

I'll wait until I get that collar out to put the belt on so I'm less likely to get oil and grease all over the belt.
 
I didn't take the whole front end off, I just loosened all the bolts and lifted up on the engine.

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Look how worn those pegs are. I think they're supposed to be round.

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