CHICKEN.....???
CHICKEN.....???
I GOTTA GIT ME SOME.......!!!!!!
i have to go to wally's world later anyway's, stock up on some stuff, before they go under.....
CHICKEN.....???
damn...even a woman understood what i was saying.......This fits into the groove on the side of the saw away from the fence.
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and you have the roller table Glenn is talking about at that end of the table to support your stock. Set your angle, move the fence away from the saw to keep your stock from binding and then push the stock through the saw using the guide to keep it square.
And @Skateboard is right. Fix that saw so you can use it correctly.
No, you're not going to get a perfect laser straight, accurate cut without a guide while feeding something large through a table saw. Impossible.no, you don't seriously understand..the roller stands either on one side, or both sides or the rear (discharge) of the table saw, allow easier gliding of the wood thru the saw, and keeping it from "bowing" on both ends.
if you can't "free feed" with out a guide, you're an idiot.........those stands SUPPORT the wood, making it SO MUCH EASIER to feed the work.....
You cannot slide a board against a stationary guide that's not parallel to the blade. You'll jam up the blade if you even try. So the guide would have to slide with the work piece.. For about 2 feet until the guide falls off the rear of the saw.This fits into the groove on the side of the saw away from the fence.
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and you have the roller table Glenn is talking about at that end of the table to support your stock. Set your angle, move the fence away from the saw to keep your stock from binding and then push the stock through the saw using the guide to keep it square.
And @Skateboard is right. Fix that saw so you can use it correctly.
well we know how we are explaining it, you don't know how to read it.No, you're not going to get a perfect laser straight, accurate cut without a guide while feeding something large through a table saw. Impossible.
You cannot slide a board against a stationary guide that's not parallel to the blade. You'll jam up the blade if you even try. So the guide would have to slide with the work piece.. For about 2 feet until the guide falls off the rear of the saw.
That's fine for retired old guys making bird houses to sell at the flea market but not for putting off-square cuts in full sheets of plywood. And it also isn't an "extension".
Y'all are on crack. I wouldn't let either of you anywhere near my grandpa's table saw unless it was unplugged.
I'm even considering banning my dad from it simply because he made a dumbass suggestion that he could put a metal cutting blade in it and use it to split a steel pipe in half lengthwise for some reason the other day.
He's already banned from my drill press because I caught him about to attempt to use a fly cutter to make a 6" diameter hole in the sidewall of a car tire (trying to make rubber pads to go under the air compressor.)
Skateboard does but I choose to ignore his input about blade height because I don't do the type of woodworking he does.guessin' you, me and skateboard, actually KNOW what we speak of...
i don't believe i said MY table saw was made in china..Skateboard does but I choose to ignore his input about blade height because I don't do the type of woodworking he does.
You seem hell bent on destroying a table saw, and Injun is talking about a miter guide when we're talking about free-hand guiding of large sheets of plywood on an irreplaceable pre-China heirloom table saw I would get haunted from beyond the grave by my grandpa if I ****ed up.
Jam up your own table saw. You said once before it was made in China anyway so who cares?
Time for photoshop... Gotta establish once and for all whether you're confused about front/rear/right/left or if you're just an idiot who's going to tear up a table saw..well we know how we are explaining it, you don't know how to read it.
how about this suggestion...
use a god damned circular saw, across 2 saw horses.....
and for the record, i'd sooner kill off all the birds, then make any homes for the bastards..
It was a while back in a different thread, or possibly this one but way back. You said you inherited a bunch of old, heavy power tools but gave them away or something and bought newer lightweight stuff. Everything is made in China these days.i don't believe i said MY table saw was made in china..
next.....you ARE setting the blade height TOO HIGH..it's supposed to be on about 1/8 to 1/4 ABOVE the wood you are cutting, not up to the effing ceiling......you a re causing undo friction on the wood, making it harder to push thru...
and further...who cares if YOUR grandpa haunted you..???
The miter guide (what I've been calling a "slider" guide) fits into the groove, you butt your material up to it and then use it to push your material through the saw by sliding it forward in the groove while holding the stock tight to the guide. It's not free-hand.You cannot slide a board against a stationary guide that's not parallel to the blade.
The miter guide (what I've been calling a "slider" guide) fits into the groove, you butt your material up to it and then use it to push your material through the saw by sliding it forward in the groove while holding the stock tight to the guide. It's not free-hand.
Your shop teacher should have been fired for not showing you something this basic.
But I don't know ****-all about it. I only built cabinets for million-dollar coaches for three years. A loooong time ago. Might ask a professional woodworker about it. Wait, they don't know anything, either. You said so. They're just old ****in fuddy-duddies..

You're talking about the miter guide. I know how to use the fucking miter guide.. for smaller cuts that can be completed before you push the fucking miter guide off the rear edge of the table.The miter guide (what I've been calling a "slider" guide) fits into the groove, you butt your material up to it and then use it to push your material through the saw by sliding it forward in the groove while holding the stock tight to the guide. It's not free-hand.
Your shop teacher should have been fired for not showing you something this basic.
But I don't know ****-all about it. I only built cabinets for million-dollar coaches for three years. A loooong time ago. Might ask a professional woodworker about it. Wait, they don't know anything, either. You said so. They're just old ****in fuddy-duddies..
You're going to need AA meetings by the time Injun figures out a miter guide has nothing to do with the type of cut we're discussing, and GAnthony gets his head out of his digestive tract.
That's what I was hopin' fer.You're going to need AA meetings by the time Injun figures out a miter guide has nothing to do with the type of cut we're discussing, and GAnthony gets his head out of his digestive tract.

so why didn't you use one.????..(circular saw..???)View attachment 38812
View attachment 38813
Fence goes up to 24" from the blade. Cutting a 3 foot wide strip of plywood would require the fence to float in midair a foot past the right edge of the table, or simply setting it to 11-7/8" (12" minus an 1/8" for blade width) and cutting it so the 3 foot piece you need is on the scrap side of the blade.
Trying to cut a 4x8 sheet of plywood in half to make two identical squares would either require extensions to set the fence 47-15/16" from the blade, or removing the fence and drawing a line across the plywood and feeding it through free-hand without a guide. That would be stupid and a good way to jam up the blade. It's why they make handheld circular saws.
Photographs of a table saw.. And no. Because there aren't any. You're talking about just standing them up on the floor beside the saw.and by YOUR pics/drawings/whatever..don't you see the placement of the roller supports..????