then buy a pair or 3, they will help you for when you take on the next project.....you just have no idea on how to use a table saw.......your grand dad is rolling over in his grave, or maybe even laughing at you.
Duck Pond Redneckery
- Thread starter Duck
- Start date
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
No, my circular saw will help on the next project involving plywood. Because it's the right tool for the job. Unless you're cutting smaller stuff like this:
This (below) would be just plain stupid with or without roller stands when there's a pair of saw horses and a handheld circular saw available. That's what you're talking about right? (except obviously with the saw pulled further away from the pallet rack)
If you free-hand that, you're asking for a jammed blade, and a crooked cut. How close can you get your eyes to that blade? Especially considering a table saw is supposed to have a plastic safety shield over it. (mines been missing for years...)
I do plan on getting roller stands though, but not for this purpose.
YES..that's what i'm talking about...support that wood..>!! and look at that frigging blade height for that wood.....!!!!! you only need to be about 1/8 to 1/4 above the wood's height.>!!!!!!
that height WILL BE the cause of it jamming...!!!!!!
Half-Inch Shy: Crosscutting Wide Stock Safely on a Table Saw
But yeh, you're right. I don't have a clue.
But yeh, you're right. I don't have a clue.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Apparently you still don't.Half-Inch Shy: Crosscutting Wide Stock Safely on a Table Saw
But yeh, you're right. I don't have a clue.
In that article he says he achieved a 14" wide cut that way.
What are you gonna do when cutting a 4x8 into a 4'x4' or a city with similar large pieces on either side of the blade, overhanging all 4 edges of the table saw halfway through the cut, like we've been talking about? Hold the miter guide against the plywood 4 feet away from your body as you feed it through the saw and lean over the blade, then free-hand it after the guide falls off the back side?
If Bob Vila himself told me to do that, I'd call him an imbecile.
Low blade height is what's going to get your work piece shot out of your hands and probably jabbed into your stomach.
There's this thing called "kickback".. More likely to happen with crappy Menard's lumber full of knots.
Or OSB with metal inside it.
For some reason I was actually seeing SPARKS coming off my circular saw blade while cutting OSB. Quite often too.
You're not going to get sparks unless the blade is hitting metal or stone or something that should not be embedded into OSB.
It wasn't staples, wasn't the metal brackets on the saw horses (although I did hit that once
) and nothing on the saw itself was close enough to hit the blade. 
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Before you try to sound all smart 'n' stuff by saying the sparks were because of blade height (actually depth) on the circular saw, I originally ran this OSB up to the edge here. That's two 2x4s doubled up, btw.
I had to cut it back to allow for the door skin to set on the 2x4.
Well after doing all that air plumbing and pulling those fat cables through that sharp 90 for the welder outlet I sure as hell wasn't taking that wall apart to trim back the OSB on the table saw. So I set the circular saw blade depth to 7/16", the thickness of the OSB and cut it in place.
It was making sparks during that cut too.
I had to cut it back to allow for the door skin to set on the 2x4.
Well after doing all that air plumbing and pulling those fat cables through that sharp 90 for the welder outlet I sure as hell wasn't taking that wall apart to trim back the OSB on the table saw. So I set the circular saw blade depth to 7/16", the thickness of the OSB and cut it in place.
It was making sparks during that cut too.
I don't know WTF you think you were talking about. I was talking about your door panel. Make your rip cuts first and then the technique in the picture for your crosscuts. Unless your door is 4' wide, that is. I know for a fact Sarah ain't that big and looking at the picture of the finished door, neither is it.Apparently you still don't.
In that article he says he achieved a 14" wide cut that way.
What are you gonna do when cutting a 4x8 into a 4'x4' or a city with similar large pieces on either side of the blade, overhanging all 4 edges of the table saw halfway through the cut, like we've been talking about? Hold the miter guide against the plywood 4 feet away from your body as you feed it through the saw and lean over the blade, then free-hand it after the guide falls off the back side?
If Bob Vila himself told me to do that, I'd call him an imbecile.
Low blade height is what's going to get your work piece shot out of your hands and probably jabbed into your stomach.
There's this thing called "kickback".. More likely to happen with crappy Menard's lumber full of knots.
Or OSB with metal inside it.
For some reason I was actually seeing SPARKS coming off my circular saw blade while cutting OSB. Quite often too.
You're not going to get sparks unless the blade is hitting metal or stone or something that should not be embedded into OSB.
It wasn't staples, wasn't the metal brackets on the saw horses (although I did hit that once
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Just simply taking a full sheet of plywood and cutting it in half into two squares. Not for any particular purpose.
Basically any cut in which no fence or guide can be used because the work piece will overhang all 4 sides of the table saw when you reach the halfway point in the cut.
If you have to do it free hand, you're better off doing it on saw horses with a handheld circular saw because you can keep your eyes directly over the blade (or the sights on the front if they're set right) to keep it straight.
I can't see well enough to keep the blade on the pencil line when it's 4 feet away. Not well enough to maintain the level of accuracy I insist on. I want to be able to pull a tape measure on any point along the cut and have it right on the mark.
It's called OCD.
It takes longer but when the project is finished, it doesn't look like it was hacked together by a 12 year old (or a crabby Chef Boyardee addict suffering from Ravioli withdrawal symptoms)
i have an anti-kickback device on my table saw, digs into the wood if it even tries to go backwards.Apparently you still don't.
In that article he says he achieved a 14" wide cut that way.
What are you gonna do when cutting a 4x8 into a 4'x4' or a city with similar large pieces on either side of the blade, overhanging all 4 edges of the table saw halfway through the cut, like we've been talking about? Hold the miter guide against the plywood 4 feet away from your body as you feed it through the saw and lean over the blade, then free-hand it after the guide falls off the back side?
If Bob Vila himself told me to do that, I'd call him an imbecile.
Low blade height is what's going to get your work piece shot out of your hands and probably jabbed into your stomach.
There's this thing called "kickback".. More likely to happen with crappy Menard's lumber full of knots.
Or OSB with metal inside it.
For some reason I was actually seeing SPARKS coming off my circular saw blade while cutting OSB. Quite often too.
You're not going to get sparks unless the blade is hitting metal or stone or something that should not be embedded into OSB.
It wasn't staples, wasn't the metal brackets on the saw horses (although I did hit that once
i never saw any sparks from any wood i ever cut, not even the high density fiber board.
yes, if i was to have cut through some staples, i''d see sparks, nut i check all pieces of wood before either a power tool or hand saw, cuts it..yes, i still use hand saws.
can't confirm the quality of Maynerds wood, but sounds like it's cheaper and lower quality than wood from China....
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
This OSB is made in Hayward, WI and some of it in Maniwaki, Quebec.
Same sparky crap though...
I don't understand how anything made on this continent could be so crappy unless it was made by illegal immigrants.
You didn't say that.
With a hand-held circular saw:
Use four saw horses. measure the blade width (usually 1/8 inch) and take half of that, add it to the measurement from the side of the blade tooth to the edge of the base. Add that to one'half the length of the sheet of plywood. Mark each side. Clamp a straightedge to line up with your marks and cut, keeping the base edge against your straightedge. Just remember to use the side of the saw base you measured to. You will have two identically sized half sheets.
If you're after square, mark one side and then run the line out with a framing square. The pieces will probably not be perfectly identical.
You don't have to follow a pencil line free-hand.
of course not, i pay professionals. gets done faster, better quality materials, proper permits, which also too i might add, in case of some sort of fire from an electrical situation, i'll be covered better by my insurance company. and workers they clean up afterwards.
while i sit and watch tv and check on them occasionally.
Duck
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I did it that way once. I had to cut a piece of wall sheathing out of square to compensate for one of the posts not being plumb.
Figured it's too much hassle to mess around clamping an 8 foot straight edge (big heavy piece of angle iron) so I just free-hand it and follow the pencil line.
Why pay a ridiculous amount of money to do it that way, just to have it done wrong because the contractor doesn't understand basic instructions?
The electrician who did the wiring was a moron.
The contractor who built the actual barn was a moron.
The contractor who did the concrete didn't put enough expansion joints in, and the apron for the north door isn't sloped away from the building.
If you want it done right you gotta do it yourself.
no, you gotta live in an area where morons do not exist. have great references, and understand what you want.
in all my years of any big jobs, like roofing, carpentry, electrical, plumbing, i never had a problem.
you ever heard of a "chick magnet"..??? you know, some guys attract great looking chicks..??
you might be a moron magnet.........attracting piss poor (and great at being) moron contractors.
Duck
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Lowest bidder.
I'm not in the habit of paying someone extra to do the job right.
The lowest bidder shouldn't even be in business at all if he can't do it right, regardless of what he charges.
well ifin ya go the lowest bidder, ya gits what ya pays fer...
ironpony
Professional Pot-Stirrer
Duck
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Duck
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If a contractor shows up and there's "Local" whatever stickers on his vehicle, I tell him to get lost.Commie union revenge on cheapass righty hoser...
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