Duck Pond Redneckery

[krelithous]

I did go slow.

But I just looked at the blade on the circular saw. It's a fine tooth blade but says "OSB and plastic" on it. Turns out I'd taken the finishing blade off and forgot.

I got that blade for cutting the plexiglass for that skylight thing. It did a good job on the plexiglass, BTW but totally sucked on the OSB. Dogs the motor and makes a burnt edge like it's dull.

As for why I didn't use the table saw on the 40-1/4" line it's because it wouldn't fit.

To make a good square cut on a table saw you need to have the work piece between the guide and the blade, with the scrap being removed.

You're removing the scrap from the work piece, not removing the work piece from the scrap.

The reason is when the work piece is hanging 40 inches past the blade, it's hard to feed it straight.

Basic shop skills, learned it in middle school shop class.

He also said "and whatever you do, don't NEVER put plywood in the planer".

I've always remembered that because it was odd hearing a teacher use a double negative. Mr Manak. He was one of those human encyclopedia types like Hammer166. Except he chopped off the tip of my finger in a door jamb and then transferred to the high school the same year I did so he could make fun of me for 5 years instead of one.

So a few years later, out of curiosity, I put a little scrap of plywood in the planer at home thinking it's just going to delaminate it. No, it shot the whole piece of plywood out at 800 mph.

 

[Injun]

That's not a "tablets away extension" and would be useless unless it's got two rails attached to the table saw to enable the guide to be moved further from the blade.

I don't need them for the miter saw because I made a table for it.

I do want them for use with the drill press and eventually the horizontal metal cutting band saw I plan to get.

Shop teacher never taught you what those grooves in the table are for or how to use the slider guide?

 

[Duck]

you don't need to move the guide, it stays where you set it up at. it's the over hang on the side you want support for. push the wood the normal way.....

you're either not grasping the concept, or you're busting balls. either way, it explains your nearly 5 years to complete your work room....you don't know how to compensate for the work.

I don't think you know what you're talking about.

 

[Duck]

Shop teacher never taught you what those grooves in the table are for or how to use the slider guide?

I use the slider guide every time I use it. Duhh...



Those grooves only exist to trap my tape measure and piss me off.

The guide can only be set like 24" from the blade. Anything wider than that you gotta cut on the wrong side of the blade.

 

[Injun]

The saws I used for three years in the cabinet shop had those grooves on both sides of the blade so you could use the slider guide on the open side for wider stock.

I never had a problem getting square cuts, even when trimming full-length doors.

 

[8978]

Not sure if you're doing this already or not. On the table saw and the skill saw you need to set the depth of the blade just deep enough to cut through whatever your cutting.

 

[Duck]

Not sure if you're doing this already or not. On the table saw and the skill saw you need to set the depth of the blade just deep enough to cut through whatever your cutting.

I set the table saw blade as high as it'll go unless I'm cutting kerfs.

Blade teeth hit the wood at a sharper angle. Less load on the motor. Still makes a perfect cut.

Cranking that thing up and down us a pain in the ass. It's a tiny little wheel and it's stiff as hell.

 

[Duck]

I put outlets on the pallet rack today. 3 of them.

 

[8978]

I set the table saw blade as high as it'll go unless I'm cutting kerfs.

Blade teeth hit the wood at a sharper angle. Less load on the motor. Still makes a perfect cut.

Cranking that thing up and down us a pain in the ass. It's a tiny little knob and it's stiff as hell.

That's 101 woodworking wrong.

 

[Duck]

That's 101 woodworking wrong.

You come over here and crank this blade up and down a couple times. You'd say fuck it too.

 

[8978]

No, I would change the round handle to a large crank handle.

 

[Duck]

No, I would change the round handle to a large crank handle.

No room for that cuz it's already almost up against the bottom of the deck.

I have no idea how to lubricate the shaft it turns because graphite will fall off, and any kind of grease or oil will just immediately get full of sawdust.

 

[8978]

No room for that cuz it's already almost up against the bottom of the deck.

I have no idea how to lubricate the shaft it turns because graphite will fall off, and any kind of grease or oil will just immediately get full of sawdust.

You don't oil it. It's meant to be hard and not move.

 

[Duck]

You don't oil it. It's meant to be hard and not move.

Kinda figured that but there's gotta be a way to loosen it up, and add a locking thing.

The tilt for the blade is the same kind of knob but it spins freely. There's a bolt with a handle on it to lock it.

 

[GAnthony]

I don't think you know what you're talking about.

been doing it my way for years, using a saw horse to hold the over extended wood..works every time....

funny too, i was thinking about buying the roller stand(s) to allow better feeding of the wood.

oh well...you don't know what you're doing, otherwise, that tool room would have been done in less time than it takes to get a cheerleader out or her panities....

 

[Duck]

.

been doing it my way for years, using a saw horse to hold the over extended wood..works every time....

funny too, i was thinking about buying the roller stand(s) to allow better feeding of the wood.

oh well...you don't know what you're doing, otherwise, that tool room would have been done in less time than it takes to get a cheerleader out or her panities....

It's a shop.

And it's built better than anything you'd slap together.

Stacked up Ravioli cans don't work very well as insulation.


Seriously, you don't seem to understand what I'm explaining.

The rollers are perfect for feeding long stuff through the table saw but if you're using a table saw to cut stuff that's do wide it's overhanging the edges of the table on both sides so you have to align it free-hand without a guide, you're an idiot.

 

[Blood]

It's a tiny little knob and it's stiff as hell.

Bookmarking quote for future use.

 

[8978]

Kinda figured that but there's gotta be a way to loosen it up, and add a locking thing.

The tilt for the blade is the same kind of knob but it spins freely. There's a bolt with a handle on it to lock it.

When I was into it I had a Delta cabinet maker table saw. The up/down/tilt controls had a round wheel you could turn and tighten or loosen the adjustment levers. I forgot about that. If it wasn't tightened you could turn them with one finger

 

[GAnthony]

.

It's a shop.

And it's built better than anything you'd slap together.

Stacked up Ravioli cans don't work very well as insulation.


Seriously, you don't seem to understand what I'm explaining.

The rollers are perfect for feeding long stuff through the table saw but if you're using a table saw to cut stuff that's do wide it's overhanging the edges of the table on both sides so you have to align it free-hand without a guide, you're an idiot.

no, you don't seriously understand..the roller stands either on one side, or both sides or the rear (discharge) of the table saw, allow easier gliding of the wood thru the saw, and keeping it from "bowing" on both ends.

if you can't "free feed" with out a guide, you're an idiot.... .....those stands SUPPORT the wood, making it SO MUCH EASIER to feed the work.....

 

[ironpony]

making it SO MUCH EASIER to feed the work.....