Duck Pond Redneckery

[Duck]

That works in everything from a Ranchero to a 350. According to Bronco Graveyard.

I like my super bright, 400 lumen, 5000k LED one though.

Drivers door pin switch is garbage so it only works with the passenger door or when I turn the headlight knob all the way counter clockwise.

No idea how to replace it.

Hex nut on the outside but the switch has to be removed from the inside of a hollow cavity and I don't know how to get in there without taking the whole truck apart.

Nothing in the Haynes or Chilton about it.

MAYBE when I pull this plastic vent thing off.

Ya know how old pickups used to have air vents by your feet? Open it on a hot day and you got wind on your legs. They're great.

But this one is halfway clogged up with leaves or something and I gotta pull the cover off to get them out. Maybe with that thing off I can get an arm up there.

 

[Hammer166]

door switches are grounds. A bit of surface rust and they won't work anymore.

 

[Duck]

door switches are grounds. A bit of surface rust and they won't work anymore.

Huh? It ain't like a brake light switch?

The dome light itself grounds to the cab via one of the mounting screws. The switching has to be done on the supply side.

It's stuck in. The plunger. I pulled it out with pliers just fer the hell of it but it didn't work.



But I just saw this on that bronco graveyard site:

Ranger Torque Splitter For 1971-87 4-Speeds - Broncograveyard.com

So that thing goes between the engine and trans? So it would require moving the floor shifter 7-1/2" aft? I mean from where it would be IF it wasn't a three-on-the-tree...

And modifying the hell out of the mechanical clutch linkage, shortening the drive shaft, etc.?

Sounds like too much trouble.

 

[Tazz]

I thought those switches screwed into a welded nut? Dunno Fords were my step fathers thing and I was not around him much.

 

[Hammer166]

Huh? It ain't like a brake light switch?

The dome light itself grounds to the cab via one of the mounting screws. The switching has to be done on the supply side.

It's stuck in. The plunger. I pulled it out with pliers just fer the hell of it but it didn't work.

How many wires go to the door switch? Just one, right?


And a torque splitter? You just dying to have a twin stick pickup so you can show off at the truck stop?

 

[Duck]

How many wires go to the door switch? Just one, right?

Can't see any wires at all. It's a door switch... The wires are inside the body. It's only the plunger part sticking out.

And a torque splitter? You just dying to have a twin stick pickup so you can show off at the truck stop?

 

[Injun]

I took off in Blueford to go to Farm and Fleet to get some light bulbs for it and got about halfway to Manteno and it died.

Found On Road Dead...

Didn't sputter or anything, it was like I'd turned off the key.

Geezer came out. On the $&#@ing Goldwing.

I left him there, rode Goldwing home and went back with the S-10 and flashlights, tools and chains to drag it home with.

Removed air box, sprayed starting fluid into carb while geezer cranked it. Nothing.

Pulled front spark plug out and had Geezer crank it & I saw a spark.



Just for the hell of it I put it back in & had Geezer crank it again while I sprayed ether again while holding the choke open and it half-started, tried again and it started up and stayed running long enough to put the air box back on, put tools away and drive it home.



Big air bubble in the fuel line?

Carb float stuck closed? The engine rocked in its mounts during that half start thing, maybe that loosened up the float?

Tomorrow I'm gonna replace the little fuel filter on the carb and while I've got the fuel line off at the carb, crank it & see if it squirts gas. That'll test the fuel pump. Otherwise I ain't got no idea.

Stator assembly.

I had a 1976 T-Bird with a 460, would do exactly the same thing. That's what it was.

 

[Duck]

Stator assembly.

I had a 1976 T-Bird with a 460, would do exactly the same thing. That's what it was.

 

[Hammer166]

You'd think if the stator shorted hard enough to kill the ignition, it'd blow the fuse. But I've seen enough weird stuff like that, that it's possible.

 

[Injun]

It replaced the points inside the distributor cap on early electronic ignition.

You'd think if the stator shorted hard enough to kill the ignition, it'd blow the fuse. But I've seen enough weird stuff like that, that it's possible.

Mine would shut off just like turning the key and then fire right up after cooling off.

 

[Duck]

Well Cap'n rotor, wires and plugs are next so I'll take a peek in the distributor when I do that.

I saw an EI conversion kit on that bronco graveyard site. I'll do that if it has points and if they look bad, because I hate points.

 

[Injun]

Come to think of it, the heat/cooling thing makes sense. Might be it's not shorting out at all, but rather, is so worn that the little bit of heat contraction it gets is just enough to make it lose contact. All I know is after throwing parts at it for a few weeks, it worked perfectly when I replaced the stator upon the advice of a Ford dealership mechanic.

 

[GAnthony]

Mine would shut off just like turning the key and then fire right up after cooling off.

yes, GM electronic modules would heat up and die. when cooled, yes, they would restart. only a new module corrected it as well as a fresh coat of ignition grease on the bottom of the module to help dissipate the heat to the distributor plate. as the ignition parts get old, they do break down from the heat generated inside of them, coupled with the ambient air temps as well.

the big Ford moules mounted on the fender well did this to, but also they had (i believe) a thin film ignition module, can't recall the name, that mounted in the side of the distributors.

 

[Duck]

EI

 

[Duck]

Brand new distributor cap.

Damn thing rocks.

Put old one on, doesn't rock.

Eyeballed the new one and it's warped.





I ran it on the belt sander a few seconds & blew off the dust, now if fits tight and doesn't rock.

I shouldn't have to modify brand new parts just to compensate for the cheap factor.

 

[Duck]

After I broke one with the sideways pressure I used the impact on the rest. Damn things took Godzilla torque to remove.

They were tight as hell all the way out too, so I put a little Lucas oil on the threads on the new ones.



Doesn't seem to idle cold any differently.

Gonna wash up and go to Meenerd's.

 

[Duck]

I went to the junkyard today for research..

This will be my donor vehicle. $400 delivered (using the wheels borrowed from my F-150 which will be on cinder blocks during this procedure I guess)



It's a 93 with the same 300 6 engine but it's got a 5 speed.

I'll need to pull it's trans and all clutch parts, drive shaft, etc. Then the boneyard will come get it on a flatbed.

Minus $200 if I give them my mom's old locked up (flooded) Camry.

 

[mndriver]

You'd think if the stator shorted hard enough to kill the ignition, it'd blow the fuse. But I've seen enough weird stuff like that, that it's possible.

most of the time, the stator would fail because the wires on it would work harden and break. That's what I always found.

 

[Duck]

Cranking up the raft factory.



Step 1. Sanding and polyurethane. 1/4" CDX for the floor, luaun for the bottom.



When this is done, my raft will be 24 feet long.

 

[ironpony]

That's a barge... not a raft.