Church of American CapitalismWhat kind of church needs a bunch of incomplete Isuzu box truck chassis'?![]()

Nawp. Washington doesn't seem to GAF about that much, unless they see other violations. Even then, they'd haul me in for a look-see after waving a guy through whose brakes were smoking like they were on fire.Think so @Injun?
The last level 3 I got, I wasn't even asked about HOS. The cops assume that you're in compliance because you're on an ELD. What does that say about folks remaining on paper logs? They'll get the scrutiny. All of it.
DOT Fools. All of them and the DOT man was just going to let me slide on by I would call out the U.S. Marshalls to show them how my E-log was wrongThink so @Injun?
The cops assume that you're in compliance because you're on an ELD.
They need to Print out a sticker that says the truck is on E-logs and my brother in law is a U.S. MarshalWhat does that say about folks remaining on paper logs? They'll get the scrutiny. All of it.

I didn't."Lord let him answer the phone"

So he was into full blown gospel singing by the time you answeredI didn't.
It took me 22 minutes to notice the missed call and texts.![]()

Nawp. Washington doesn't seem to GAF about that much, unless they see other violations. Even then, they'd haul me in for a look-see after waving a guy through whose brakes were smoking like they were on fire.
They asked to see the logs in the QC. They wanted to see the graph. We'll still get scrutiny. Just in different areas. Like entering in the load information. Yes, they checked that.
We'll still be under the microscope. They're not stupid. They know most guys with the older trucks are going to know how to make a log look good. They won't be able to prove anything, even if it isn't correct. You and I both know how to write a comic book. So do the guys who have the older trucks.

Probably more like a constant string of profanities.So he was into full blown gospel singing by the time you answered![]()

Depends on how you define "done".
do you know if the pump had vanes in it to provide the air bubbles? i never heard of air being needed in a hydraulic system. usually air locks the system. much like any cooling system. and air bubble can get in there during service and must be bled out. which can be a prink.The loader won't work if it's been sitting a while. I have to put a little bit of air pressure into the hydraulic tank to force oil into the pump to get it started, then it works.
It's downhill 2 feet, horizontal 3 feet, then uphill about 6 inches to the pump. It should work fine...
Theory is air bubbles are getting into the oil and when I shut it down and let it sit, the bubbles in the horizontal section of the line slowly rise up. Most go up into the tank and disappear harmlessly but some of it goes up into the pump, creating like a vapor lock.
Redoing it so it's all downhill to the pump, so all of the bubbles go uphill into the tank is possible but would require cutting and welding on that pipe to make a sharp turn outwards in the front to go around the bottom of the hood/grille.
One thing I wanta do first though is run it a while, then back the rear tires onto wood blocks to elevate the rear and tilt that horizontal pipe upwards towards the tank, then leave it overnight and see what happens when I try it the next day.
I don't have a hill I could park it on.
There's a short section of rubber hose between the steel pipe and the tank. They didn't have 1-1/4" ID rubber hose anywhere I looked. Just custom formed radiator hoses. But at Menard's I noticed on braided vinyl that it says it can be used for oils do I used it.do you know if the pump had vanes in it to provide the air bubbles? i never heard of air being needed in a hydraulic system. usually air locks the system. much like any cooling system. and air bubble can get in there during service and must be bled out. which can be a prink.
i just thought you may have had pics of it all ,painted up and such, with all the owrk you had done to it....done....
yeah, i think you would have to drill then tap a hole in the bottom of the tank, using i'd think, brass fittings. the oil would splash up and into the tank, from that new bottom fitting, and then a vent hole that has some sort of baffle to not allow oil from gushing out the top. i think doable, just how far you want to go with it.There's a short section of rubber hose between the steel pipe and the tank. They didn't have 1-1/4" ID rubber hose anywhere I looked. Just custom formed radiator hoses. But at Menard's I noticed on braided vinyl that it says it can be used for oils do I used it.
Now I've got a clear section on the suction line. Cool, cuz I can now see the oil without having to drain it.
The oil looks like tea. Kinda a transparent brown.
After I run it a bit, instead of transparent where I can see a warped view of objects behind it, it's translucent meaning no image, but light gets through. So it's full of tiny air bubbles.
Cavitation.
It's caused by the return. The diffuser. That UFO looking thing with a screen on it.
The guys at Miller Hydraulic said it's to slow down the oil returning from the pressure lines to the tank when I lower the loader arms. They said it's nothing like they'd ever seen before and showed me what a modern diffuser looks like. It's like a cross between an air filter and a lawnmower muffler. But the smallest one they had was the size of a bigtruck fuel filter and I don't think it'll fit in my oil tank.
They say the high velocity return oil blasting into the oil tank puts bubbles in it.
A diffuser slows it down, changing it from a high pressure, low volume flow to a high volume, low velocity.
What I forgot to ask is why not just run the return line lower so it discharges below the surface of the oil in the tank?
Without room for a modern diffuser in that oil tank I'm not really sure what else I can do other than re-route the suction line to the pump so the air bubbles can float up into the vented oil tank instead of the pump.
i wonder how the old timers put up with that, back in the day when the tractor was brand new.?





I was thinking of just adding another valve and teeing into the supply line from the pump and teeing its return into the one from the mower lift.it is probably a pretty simple trans to rebuild,
and as far as the hydraulics just build a valve to switch between the 3 point and the mower cylinder