Duck Pond Redneckery


How many miles? 8K is decent price for that and the trailer. When I got my '06 in 2013, book was $14K, I gave $8500 for it with 136K miles.

And they get about 35-40 mpg w/o a trailer, and I very seriously doubt they go deeper into the throttle than I do...
50k. It's a 2001. Looks almost showroom except some minor dings you can only see when the trunk lid is open.
your buick only does better prob because you drive it like an ole man:grandpa::D or you got a prius engine in there and your not telling us:rolleyes:
32 mpg on a road trip, cruise service at 70.
I can't ride a bike with a fixed front end. Tried on one of those rice-rockets and almost got motion sick before going five miles.
Fixed front end?
 
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50k. It's a 2001. Looks almost showroom except some minor dings you can only see when the trunk lid is open.

32 mpg on a road trip, cruise service at 70.
Fixed front end?
She's talking about the frame-mounted fairings. It's a definite adjustment the first few times.
 
She's talking about the frame-mounted fairings. It's a definite adjustment the first few times.
I've ridden the other Goldwing around all over the place. Never bothered me.

Of course, the first time I rode it, I hadn't ridden any motorcycle in probably 15 years though.
 
Sanding just the cab roof totally covered everything in the shop with lime green paint dust. :mad:

So I did the bondo in the front left corner where there was a small rust hole, and slapped a coat of primer on it.

Tomorrow I'll recoat it but then I'm done with it until better weather so I can do the rest of the prep work outside.

Probably set the bed on it but just put in two bolts so the wind doesn't blow it off.

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It has a nice orange peel texture. ;)
 
Just for the hell of it, I put some on the frame with no prep at all. The can says it's for "heavily rusted metal"... We will see. ;)

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That orange peel went away. Or I just can't see it because it's a flat color. No shine to make it noticeable.

Masking tape is in the picture because it was necessary for the autofocus.

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Meanwhile as soon as it was no longer shiny, I turned the heater and ceiling fan off and went around the shop with the blow gun. All the green dust is on the floor now. :thumbsup:

I'll sweep it up tomorrow after I roll the Ranger outside.
 
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I would say with all the junk at your house you could use a sand blaster.
Yes. I've wanted one for years and was about to get one last summer but chickened out when I was reading about the horrible death you'll instantly experience if you get anywhere near silica sand. :stare1:

Supposedly its bad like asbestos but the tiny fragments are so light that in a sealed, airtight room with dead calm air it can take DAYS for the particles to fall to the floor. :confused:

Other blasting agents are expensive.
 
Ya, didn't think of that. We had a guy in town sand blasting an oil tank outside and the fire department drilled him a new a-hole. Didn't know there was all sorts of regulations on that. Just plain sand is OK though.
 
I see you were using the MK spray.
Do you have an opinion on how it works compared to rust blaster or other products?
I'm pretty sure I read the label once and determined it's more of a lubricant than a penetrant. As a result I use PB Blaster or Aerokroil on rusted hardware and have only used the Motorkote spray to lubricate stuff I've already freed up, in applications where grease or anti-seize compound isn't the better option.
 
Try this..

Take acetone and dextron/mercon ATF and mix it 50/50 and put it on a rusted bolt.

I've also heard diesel fuel and ATF works too.

Liquid Wrench smells like diesel fuel if you've ever noticed.
 
I got bored so I reconfigured the switch by the door in the cold side of the barn to add an outdoor light.

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It used to be just the 3-way switch for the north two lights and all of the ones in the shop, and that GFCI that feeds the outdoor outlet.

I put the switch for the outdoor light in the bottom box.

The upper right switch isn't hooked up.

Every house needs that one mystery switch that doesn't do anything. Since there ain't one like that in the house, I put one in the shop. :D

Actually the numbnuts electrician didn't put in a switch for the center lights. But there's an empty conduit going up to the rafters. :dunno:

I'm going to pull wires through it to hook up that mystery switch to the center lights. It's annoying having to flip the circuit breaker for it.
 
I got bored so I reconfigured the switch by the door in the cold side of the barn to add an outdoor light.

View attachment 39436

View attachment 39437

...

The upper right switch isn't hooked up.

Every house needs that one mystery switch that doesn't do anything. Since there ain't one like that in the house, I put one in the shop. :D

...

The lady in Norway just called, she said to tell you to quit flipping that switch off and on, they're trying to sleep! :stare2:
 
I took the hood off the tractor to do a bunch of maintenance and stuff. New electrical system, tune-up, etc.

That really reveals it's simplicity.

This is how they built stuff in 1945. Same year we nuked Japan.

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That's a 120 CI (2 liter) flathead 4 cylinder.
20.29 - 23.87 "belt horsepower". :dunno:
84 ft lbs of torque at 1500 RPM.

Upper radiator hose goes right into the head with no thermostat. Glycol antifreeze wasn't invented yet so they used alcohol. But it would evaporate too quickly at regular temps. The 8N models had 160° thermostats.

Bypass oil filtration but it's either got splash lubrication or there's another oil pump inside it.
 
Definition of belt horsepower
That power developed with all auxiliary equipment (such as pump and fans) attached; it is consequently lower than flywheel horsepower
 

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