Duck Pond Redneckery


Back to this pain in the ass.

20170324_153707.webp

Brass screw on top broke off in the hole before it was even tight.

Spade terminal on the new condenser wire was made of aluminum foil so I cut it off and put a ring terminal on it.

Thin copper strip connecting the points to the thing at the top was riveted on, but no way to remove the other end from the points without removing the points, so I yanked it off and made a new one.

This hunk of shit ignition system is going to be half homemade by the time I get it put back together.

Damn cotter pin they gave me is the size of a tree trunk compared to the microscopic hole it's supposed to go through.

I shoulda just filed down the old ones and adjusted them. :mad:
 
Back to this pain in the ass.

View attachment 39543

Brass screw on top broke off in the hole before it was even tight.

Spade terminal on the new condenser wire was made of aluminum foil so I cut it off and put a ring terminal on it.

Thin copper strip connecting the points to the thing at the top was riveted on, but no way to remove the other end from the points without removing the points, so I yanked it off and made a new one.

This hunk of **** ignition system is going to be half homemade by the time I get it put back together.

Damn cotter pin they gave me is the size of a tree trunk compared to the microscopic hole it's supposed to go through.

I shoulda just filed down the old ones and adjusted them. :mad:
be sure to put a thin coating of "white grease" on the cam lobes of the shaft, to cut down on wear of the points rub block.

i am somewhat surprised no ignition upgrade was or is available to either electronic or magneto. since you are upgrading the electrical system.
 
be sure to put a thin coating of "white grease" on the cam lobes of the shaft, to cut down on wear of the points rub block.

i am somewhat surprised no ignition upgrade was or is available to either electronic or magneto. since you are upgrading the electrical system.
There is a CDI kit for it but the old timers on the tractor forums say you're better off with the old points system because blah blah blah.

The points kit came with a little ketchup packet containing a few microns of some kind of tan stuff. I'm not sure if it's grease or oil.
 
There is a CDI kit for it but the old timers on the tractor forums say you're better off with the old points system because blah blah blah.

The points kit came with a little ketchup packet containing a few microns of some kind of tan stuff. I'm not sure if it's grease or oil.
that would be for lubing the cam lobes. i used to have kits of points/condensers in my shop, and the small tube of lube came with it, you're lucky you got some as well. a thin layer, too much and it'll sling it all over the points.

the newer ignition systems would be more reliable. but whatever.
 
I wonder how many ASE certified mechanics under the age of 30 would even know what they're looking at here.

View attachment 39534
I was looking at it and I know what it is and what it does but I would be damned if I could remember the name of it.
Fuel injection was pretty new or new to me when I was in mechanics class So of course most of the cars we worked on and my friends had, Had a distributor cap. Rebuilding them was pretty common back in the day.
 
the newer ignition systems would be more reliable. but whatever
Yeah you can go to the tractor forum and search for "EI conversion" or "CDI" and find threads where they're fighting and bickering,..

Points vs electronic ignition.

One thread that was locked looked about 1000 times worse than anything that's ever happened in our politics section.

:coocoo:
 
Yeah you can go to the tractor forum and search for "EI conversion" or "CDI" and find threads where they're fighting and bickering,..

Points vs electronic ignition.

One thread that was locked looked about 1000 times worse than anything that's ever happened in our politics section.

:coocoo:
given that the points "should be" adjusted maybe about once a year, or x number of hours of operation, and given the location in FRONT of the engine, exposed to the weather, i cannot fathom any reason to stick with points. then too, what was the cost of the point set/condenser?????

making of points/condensers for cars stopped, as a result, garages switch over to either magneto or electronic, doesn't affect any value of the vehicles. at least not as far as "what's my car worth", or the restorers that are on tv.
 
You'd think he opened up this the way he's bitching!

135.jpg
 
You'd think he opened up this the way he's *****ing!

135.jpg
If the hardware is as shitty as the crap that came off this tractor, I'd be bitching twice as much.

What pissed me off the most is this big heaping pile of pure stupidity:

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That black hole below the crankshaft pulley.

It's the front motor mount.

It's an open top bowl... Full of oily leaves and grass clippings. None of my magnetic tip screwdrivers are capable of lifting an 8-32 screw out of there and I can't find my telescopic magnet retriever thing. :mad:

I ended up using this:

20170324_174245.webp
 
If the hardware is as ****ty as the crap that came off this tractor, I'd be *****ing twice as much.

What pissed me off the most is this big heaping pile of pure stupidity:

View attachment 39545

That black hole below the crankshaft pulley.

It's the front motor mount.

It's an open top bowl... Full of oily leaves and grass clippings. None of my magnetic tip screwdrivers are capable of lifting an 8-32 screw out of there and I can't find my telescopic magnet retriever thing. :mad:

I ended up using this:

View attachment 39546
Quit dropping stuff, problem solved! :toothpick:
 
It never occurred to me that 8N's were that limited.
There are so many still around I figured they were made for years and years.
There are a dozen on CL Kansas City right now and close to that many more in the nearby areas they add at the bottom.
They made just over a half million of them in those 5 years.
 

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