Yup, if your painting it you would never know what kind of wood or material it is.
Duck Pond Redneckery
- Thread starter Duck
- Start date
Yup, if your painting it you would never know what kind of wood or material it is.
i have used it myself, used a circular saw, no problems.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
That oak plywood was 24x48.
I had to cut it down to 23-1/2" x 40-1/4".
I made the long cut with the table saw and it was perfect.
Had to use the circular saw for the other cut.
Same type of blade, only difference is the one in the table saw is larger.
The circular saw tore up the edge.
I had to cut it down to 23-1/2" x 40-1/4".
I made the long cut with the table saw and it was perfect.
Had to use the circular saw for the other cut.
Same type of blade, only difference is the one in the table saw is larger.
The circular saw tore up the edge.
i have some type of coated blades, not diamond, (maybe carbon..???) can't recall, but i don't have issues with either my table saw or circular saw or miter saw ripping plywood.....
i just checked my circular blades, one is "chromium, the other is carbonite".???
can't see what i have in my table saw.
the chromium is a finishing blade, the carbonite is my rip saw.
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could even be a cheaper plywood. but damn, i got wood in my cellar over 40 years old, and some nearly new.....never have the problem he speaks of.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
I did go slow.
But I just looked at the blade on the circular saw. It's a fine tooth blade but says "OSB and plastic" on it. Turns out I'd taken the finishing blade off and forgot.
I got that blade for cutting the plexiglass for that skylight thing. It did a good job on the plexiglass, BTW but totally sucked on the OSB. Dogs the motor and makes a burnt edge like it's dull.
As for why I didn't use the table saw on the 40-1/4" line it's because it wouldn't fit.
To make a good square cut on a table saw you need to have the work piece between the guide and the blade, with the scrap being removed.
You're removing the scrap from the work piece, not removing the work piece from the scrap.
The reason is when the work piece is hanging 40 inches past the blade, it's hard to feed it straight.
Basic shop skills, learned it in middle school shop class.
He also said "and whatever you do, don't NEVER put plywood in the planer".
I've always remembered that because it was odd hearing a teacher use a double negative. Mr Manak. He was one of those human encyclopedia types like Hammer166. Except he chopped off the tip of my finger in a door jamb and then transferred to the high school the same year I did so he could make fun of me for 5 years instead of one.
So a few years later, out of curiosity, I put a little scrap of plywood in the planer at home thinking it's just going to delaminate it. No, it shot the whole piece of plywood out at 800 mph.
i'm surprised with all you have, don't you have a table saw extension stand..???
Adjustable Roller Stand Miter Table Saw Extension Support Sawhorse Power Tools | eBay
Adjustable Roller Stand Miter Table Saw Extension Support Sawhorse Power Tools | eBay
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
That's not a "table saw extension" and would be useless unless it's got two rails attached to the table saw to enable the guide to be moved further from the blade.
I don't need them for the miter saw because I made a table for it.
I do want them for use with the drill press and eventually the horizontal metal cutting band saw I plan to get.
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noooo.....you put one or two, depending on the length of the plywood, just beyond the table saw's top, (the exit of the wood, and glide the work over it. easy as squeezy
Duck
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Yeah, that's for if you're cutting a narrow strip off of a long, narrow board.
I'm talking about cutting a strip off of something that's too WIDE for the table saw.
I don't need anything to hold a long board overhanging the back of a table saw. I just stop halfway, hold the piece down and move around to the other side and continue by pulling the work piece instead of pushing.
The top wall "plates" for my entire 35 foot long south wall were cut that way. I had to cut 2x8's down to exactly 7" wide.
then you put the stand on the side to hold up the wood...duh.....
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Again.. Where do you attach the guide? Or do you just free-hand it and hope you don't get it out of alignment and jerk the blade to a stop and screw up your cut? In that case it's better to use saw horses and a circular saw.
you don't need to move the guide, it stays where you set it up at. it's the over hang on the side you want support for. push the wood the normal way.....
you're either not grasping the concept, or you're busting balls. either way, it explains your nearly 5 years to complete your work room....you don't know how to compensate for the work.
Duck will never get this project done 
i don't have roller stands myself. i use saw horses to support any rearward or side over hangs. the stands or in my case, saw horses, "expand" in a sense, the table width or depth.....so simple, even a caveman can do it....Duck will never get this project done
at this point it's amazing that ducks still alive
i had the guy that works on my off grid setup over today to change out the turbine blades. but anyways were talking about about how i moved from boston to LA. and his reply was what a culture shock that must have been
. i think him and duck would get along since he's from the south and they like talking about spickets and stuff
. i think him and duck would get along since he's from the south and they like talking about spickets and stuff
i'm still wondering what he's using the electrical room for it sounds like he's gonna put some off grid system in there. or who knows he might get drunk one night and wind up sleeping in it
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