Cat sdp
Active Member
Goggle Rawze.com that would be a place to get current advice.....
DonnieD
New Member
Mr. Rawze, I watched your EGR tupe up videos a few months ago, and again today because I'm finally ready to do the procedure to my 2010 Prostar w/CM381. Ther's one question I wanted to ask you before I started. I wanted to ask you on your website but wasn't able to register or view much of the information thats available there. Anyway, your videos don't show the re-assembly and I'm curious to know if your re-using the gaskets or replacing with new? (Manifold, Venturi, after EGR tube, and both ends of doser gaskets) I'd think if your spending money to replace sensors and aftertreatment injectors, what's a few dollars more for new gaskets. Then again if the used gasket looks to be in good shape, why spend the extra cash? Your opinion please?
Thanks
P.S. I'm also replacing the crankcase filter since I've been getting high pressure code.
Thanks
P.S. I'm also replacing the crankcase filter since I've been getting high pressure code.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Actually no. I don't think they actually redesigned the engine itself until some point after 2010. In fact the emissions stuff shortens the life of the EPA2007 engines.
The delete also requires removal of some of the EPA stuff though.
The milk money file or any other type of delete file would not be illegal to host on a website because it's perfectly legal to remove the emissions junk from off-road vehicles. Like if someone was putting a used truck engine in a yacht or a commercial farming operation was putting it on one of their irrigation pumps.
But it would require a well written disclaimer & the downloadable file itself would have to be a zip file so it can contain the same disclaimer.
Government would still try to use bully tactics to get it taken offline though.
In addition to the EPA, any type of file for a truck's ECM would have general product liability too, like if serious engine problems begun after someone used it.
Several years ago, after Rawze wandered off, some fly-by poster uploaded a text file to a post in this thread saying it was the milk money file. If I remember correctly, the IP address traced to Washington DC and I said "um... no" and deleted it. For all I know it was a Trojan horse designed by some extremist at the EPA to destroy an engine. But even if it was the correct file, Mike's not going to want the potential legal hassles involved in hosting it.
armstrongbb
New Member
Looking for any info anyone can provide - we have a 2005 International ISX autoshift...until a few days ago when we put in a new starter it ran fine. Now it will not go into gear. It will change gears if you push it off but then it skips around 6th. I'm posting this trying to help my husband find a solution. We have called everyone we know and read everything we can find. If this has happened to you or you know a solution please please share! Time is of the essence 
Thanks!!
Thanks!!Armstrongbb,
I have a 2010 Peterbilt with a Cummins ISX / Autoshift. I had a similar problem and found that if your truck is equipped with ABS (which most are) and ESP (electronic stability control) these two systems interface with each other and some other systems and can dictate what the transmission can or can't do. I found that the speed sensor on my truck was cracked and was sending or not sending the correct signals to the ecm thus not allowing my truck to go into gear. If you ever noticed that when you put the truck in gear and it started to move backwards and would not accelerate, that's because the sensors blocked the accelerator (simple way to describe it) so as not to damage the transmission. If your transmission can't go into gear, first is the service light blinking on the shift pad? Do you get a fault on the driver display? It may be a bad speed sensor. If you are having trouble with it skipping shifts I would check the wiring harness and air lines from the X Y shifter to the computers ecm for damage or grounding or maybe the wires where the starter is. I don't remember any wires near there but I have a Peterbilt 387 so i'm sure yours is different. And lastly, I would check for air leaks at or around the transmission servos or actuators.
I have a 2010 Peterbilt with a Cummins ISX / Autoshift. I had a similar problem and found that if your truck is equipped with ABS (which most are) and ESP (electronic stability control) these two systems interface with each other and some other systems and can dictate what the transmission can or can't do. I found that the speed sensor on my truck was cracked and was sending or not sending the correct signals to the ecm thus not allowing my truck to go into gear. If you ever noticed that when you put the truck in gear and it started to move backwards and would not accelerate, that's because the sensors blocked the accelerator (simple way to describe it) so as not to damage the transmission. If your transmission can't go into gear, first is the service light blinking on the shift pad? Do you get a fault on the driver display? It may be a bad speed sensor. If you are having trouble with it skipping shifts I would check the wiring harness and air lines from the X Y shifter to the computers ecm for damage or grounding or maybe the wires where the starter is. I don't remember any wires near there but I have a Peterbilt 387 so i'm sure yours is different. And lastly, I would check for air leaks at or around the transmission servos or actuators.
New to the group guys. Hope this is the correct place to post a question. Just purchased a 2008 Pete 386 ISX Cummins 871. Was showing a low coolant symbol so I jumped the sensor to get it to crank and get home ( about a 2 hour drive ) to NC. Ran great. Good power , no lag and no signs of issues. Got home and turned the truck off. Let it sit for a few minutes and fired it rite back up. Still no issues. It sat for 24 hours. Went to crank it this morning and the screen says Power Loss ECU. What could have happened in 24 hours ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did check the fuse panel in drivers floor and everything is good. Thanks in advance
I got mine NEXIQ 2 Nexiq USB Link 2 + Software Diesel Truck Interface Cost-effective
NEXIQ USB Link 2 Adapter For Sale Software With All Installers
Ontario Outlaw
Hozer Witta Hood
r3gulator3
IMA KEEP IT REDNECK
The software is called INSITE. And your would also benefit from a QSOL (quick serve on line) account as well. It has trouble shooting for the codes and all engine repair manuals:
Ontario Outlaw
Hozer Witta Hood
Ok so the software doesn’t change? I was curious if Nexiq used something different
INSITEs tech support SUCKS. We aren’t friends I’ll leave it at that
r3gulator3
IMA KEEP IT REDNECK
Nexiq, has a file you have to install to make it work with INSITE. But hey if you need help navigating INSITE let me know. As far as making it work. Sorry I’m not that tech savvy.
Ontario Outlaw
Hozer Witta Hood
It’s a long boring story. To sum up I couldn’t change a parameter, using Insite. It took a week and a lot of phone calls and a LOT of remote access to my laptop before I threw in the towel and stopped at a KW dealer for help.
I had/have to change a different parameter before I can change the parameter I wanted to change
So I understand that part, now, but it’s kind of clunky to use
Last time home I stopped in at a local shop, they plugged in and walked me through a few things. I don’t think I’m stupid, but it was good to have someone show me one on one. Sometimes being able to point at things and ask questions is better
The quickserve part of it is awesome for troubleshooting, it gives you a tree to follow as well as ohm values or voltage to diagnose things
r3gulator3
IMA KEEP IT REDNECK
Yeah and if you actually get QSOL the information is more up to date than what is stored in your laptop. So if a sensor value updates or they find an easier way to troubleshoot, you can get the most current tree on line.
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