Blood
Driveler Emeritus
Did you know that hot welding slag landing on the crotch area of your coveralls/jeans can teach you to fly???
Everybody knows that.
Duck Pond Redneckery
- Thread starter Duck
- Start date
Everybody knows that.
Vise-Grip
Southern Fried
Well-Known Member
AKA Third Hand. At one time I had 13 different pairs in various sizes including a pair for making a lip on sheet metal fenders so that you could fit in patch panels. Currently have only 5.
you must be moving to commieforina as it looks like your building a smartfortwo
Duck
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Maybe I should just put a heavy duty alternator out of an ambulance on the thing, eliminate the transaxle & put electric hubs & battery from a golf cart on it. Then it'll be a true hybrid. Even "greener" if I convert the engine to run on ethanol.you must be moving to commieforina as it looks like your building a smartfortwo
I just got done converting my old 300D to run off diesel and cng let me tell you whay a fucking difference that makes it now drives like a gasserMaybe I should just put a heavy duty alternator out of an ambulance on the thing, eliminate the transaxle & put electric hubs & battery from a golf cart on it. Then it'll be a true hybrid. Even "greener" if I convert the engine to run on ethanol.
and I get 130 mpg lets see a prius do that 
. people who buy hybrids are idiots diesels are more flexible to convert over and better mpg. next i'll be doing my suv's
Duck
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I wonder how I'd have to configure that thing, and if I'd be better off just putting an engine & alternator on an electric golf cart.
Obviously the engine could idle when there's no load. Drive it around with the engine off for quite a while, ... but if the engine is idling, as soon as you take off the electrical load from the motor will dog down the gas engine when the alternator starts trying to cover the demand. So you'd have to manually bump the throttle up before stepping on the "gas" if the engine is running.
Maybe figure out what RPM the engine needs to run to reach bare-minimum RPM for the alternator to put out it's full capacity, but rig up a switch on the "gas" pedal, an additional switch that closes a pin-switch under the pedal so when you floor it, that pinswitch breaks the circuit that powers the alternator's field electromagnets. If the field magnets are not energized, the alternator is useless and won't dog down the engine.
So if you just want to put enough mechanical energy into the alternator to power the golf cart when it's just cruising along, but disable the alternator & use only the battery when accelerating under heavy electrical load, it would be an efficient hybrid. Well, ... efficient for what it is.
The thing about electric vehicles though is that they can have hub motors. One motor directly driving one wheel. Put one on each rear wheel & you basically have posi-traction.
Obviously the engine could idle when there's no load. Drive it around with the engine off for quite a while, ... but if the engine is idling, as soon as you take off the electrical load from the motor will dog down the gas engine when the alternator starts trying to cover the demand. So you'd have to manually bump the throttle up before stepping on the "gas" if the engine is running.
Maybe figure out what RPM the engine needs to run to reach bare-minimum RPM for the alternator to put out it's full capacity, but rig up a switch on the "gas" pedal, an additional switch that closes a pin-switch under the pedal so when you floor it, that pinswitch breaks the circuit that powers the alternator's field electromagnets. If the field magnets are not energized, the alternator is useless and won't dog down the engine.
So if you just want to put enough mechanical energy into the alternator to power the golf cart when it's just cruising along, but disable the alternator & use only the battery when accelerating under heavy electrical load, it would be an efficient hybrid. Well, ... efficient for what it is.
The thing about electric vehicles though is that they can have hub motors. One motor directly driving one wheel. Put one on each rear wheel & you basically have posi-traction.
are you stealing my idea of a diesel hybrid LOL.
Duck
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No that's just how a lot of hybrids are set up.
And I've been wanting some kind of hybrid outboard type of setup for my homemade rafts. I NEVER want to listen to a gasoline engine screaming away when I'm floating down the river, but I always worry about my deep cycle battery's state of charge & I'd like to be able to get drunk without having to constantly compute amp hours in my head.
The purpose for a hybrid drive on the raft is just so I can enjoy the silence, or at least not have a lawnmower engine making all kinds of noise when I've got the stereo going, but when we stop to hang out on shore for a while, I can take & carry (or drive) the 12 volt generator & batteries out into the woods & just run an extension cord back out to the shore to power the stereo. Get the batteries topped off then shut the thing off since the stereo can be loud as hell & still only draw about 4.5 amps. Or just leave the thing off & not fire it up until we have to drive the raft upstream a few miles at less than walking speed (relative to shore).
I was thinking of building a diesel hybrid where the diesel gen just idles even of the cars going 150 mph. and it would just generate power to keep the car going and everything in it running while sipping diesel. will they allow that here hell no why better fuel economy wich means less road taxes for them to spend
I was working in Cedar Rapids for a year on a project and became friend with another engineer who was working on building his own wind mill setup. He bought a tower and all the fixings. Instead of buying an off the shelve wind generator head he built his own. He even got the planes and made his own fiberglass blades. He used a car alternator and his goal was to charge car batteries that were connected to an inverter.
Long story short. I'm at his house and this baby is humming along at like 3,000rpm's. Not really sure but it was going big time. The batteries are brand new and were already fully charged. He starts running things like simple stuff. Lights and whatnot. He goes for the Mr. Coffee. Everything going good until a few minutes later. Voltage dropping in the batteries then all of a sudden the windmill just stops dead in it's tracks from the current draw. It was kind of funny. It was a good idea but you really have to change the way you live if you want to do this kind of stuff. There's also a lot more electronics and custom computer work needed to throttle and control the rate of charge and a whole bunch of other stuff.
Long story short. I'm at his house and this baby is humming along at like 3,000rpm's. Not really sure but it was going big time. The batteries are brand new and were already fully charged. He starts running things like simple stuff. Lights and whatnot. He goes for the Mr. Coffee. Everything going good until a few minutes later. Voltage dropping in the batteries then all of a sudden the windmill just stops dead in it's tracks from the current draw. It was kind of funny. It was a good idea but you really have to change the way you live if you want to do this kind of stuff. There's also a lot more electronics and custom computer work needed to throttle and control the rate of charge and a whole bunch of other stuff.
Duck
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Yeah I just realized that the other night.
I bought this thing 18 years ago. It's one of those obnoxiously loud noise machines with the direct-drive pump so I keep it in my generator shed & just run hoses out to a storage tank in the workshop so I don't have to listen to it. It's been plugged in and turned on for pretty much all of those 18 years. And for the past 3 or 4 years it's had a slow leak in the pressure switch.
The other night it was popping circuit breakers for some reason. I went into investigate it & every time it would shut off, air would blast out of the pressure switch and a few seconds later it would try to kick back on. But there was back-pressure on the unloader valve so it was trying to start the pump with pressure between the pump & the tank, and that's why it was popping the breaker.
I went to Menard's, Ace Hardware and Farm & Fleet & the closest I could find to a replacement pressure switch was a Coleman brand set to turn on at 101 psi and shut off at 135. This one needs a 125 psi cutoff.
So I bought it anyway. New regulator, tank gauge, working pressure gauge, forgot to get a pressure relief valve but I cleaned up & re-used the old one. I put green X's on the stuff I didn't end up using.
Damn thing reached 110 psi pretty quickly then got really slow. I rolled it outside & was working on my Milwaukee Port-A-Band replacing the rubber "blade pulley tires". (Pain in the ass, ... like trying to mount a tire on a rim) and after a while I noticed it wasn't shutting off. I looked at the gauge & it was at about 117 PSI. I turned the switch off & back on to stop it, then pulled the relief valve to bleed it down until it started back up. It started at 101 psi & I watched it get to about 110 right away, then a little slower to 115 and then all it did was make noise.
There's a phillips screw on the new pressure switch with silicone in the head so you can't get a screwdriver in it. I took a nail & dug it out & started turning that screw until the compressor shut off. Then I bled it back down all the way to 80 psi until it turned back on. When it got up around 114 psi I backed that screw out a little more til it shut off. Then I put it back in the generator shed & hooked it up to the 150 foot air hose to the barn so it would lose air & cycle again.
Now it's working fine. It gets up to about 114 psi in a reasonable amount of time & shuts off, kicks back on at 80 psi.
So it's worn out. It should quickly build up to 125.
For now it's good enough. I don't run air tools very often. Mainly I just use it for tires & to blow grass off the mowers.
After 18 years of pretty much continuous duty I'm surprised it's even still working at all, since it was a cheap compressor to start with. I think I got it for less than $200 & it came with an impact, paint sprayer & a pneumatic nut driver thing.
Then again, .. maybe it wasn't so cheaply built after all. I looked for a "Made in China" label & didn't find one. Just this:
I imagine all the new ones these days all have the "Made by Chinese Slaves" label on them now.
I'll probably get a new one, with a belt-driven pump so it's not a noise factory, and retire this one to Tennessee. My dad's always down there & whining that there's no air compressor for the leaky riding mower tires & blowing the grass off the mower before putting it away & stuff. This compressor is just fine for those purposes.
Duck
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Maybe my next one will be a Campbell Hausfeld also. I've always thought they were the "Cheapo Deluxe" brand, one step up from "Chicago Pneumatic" or "Chicago Electric" or any other tool brand with "Chicago" in the name (all Chinese garbage) but I guess not.
A normal belt driven compressor with drain & filler plugs on the pump so they can be maintained properly should last a lot longer than 18 years but these direct-drive ones I always thought were crap. They're so loud that even when they're brand new they sound like they're about to fly apart.
The only reason I didn't buy a belt-driven one at the time was because I was a teenager making $7.50 an hour.
And the only reason I haven't bought a belt-driven compressor since then is because this one never died.
A normal belt driven compressor with drain & filler plugs on the pump so they can be maintained properly should last a lot longer than 18 years but these direct-drive ones I always thought were crap. They're so loud that even when they're brand new they sound like they're about to fly apart.
The only reason I didn't buy a belt-driven one at the time was because I was a teenager making $7.50 an hour.
And the only reason I haven't bought a belt-driven compressor since then is because this one never died.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
The motor I can understand. That high RPM pump is different though.
A belt driven compressor runs at low RPM. There's a small pulley on the motor & a big one on the pump. The direct-drive ones don't have that reduction. They're smaller & run a lot higher RPM.
We tested fire hose by pumping it up to 300 psi and letting it sit there for 15 minutes. If it leaked, it failed. Normal use pressure was 125 psi.
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