InTooDeep
Well-Known Member
Didn't know I am a redneck but I'd rock that fishing in the rain
Duck Pond Redneckery
- Thread starter Duck
- Start date
Rigjockey
In Gord we trust!
Looks like a pretty inexpensive solution. Plus the front windows open up.
I might be a redneck.
Electric Chicken
Well-Known Member
Not if that's a Leer.
Sinister
pari animositate
I had a rock fly out from my lawnmower and break a window in my last topper.
It was a Cover Master brand. Could NOT find replacement glass. They went out of business a while ago.
There was a very dark tint and a slight curve. Getting glass made was cost prohibitive.
To put it mildly.
I went and had a piece of plexiglass cut and screwed on.
Thats almost as redneck as a topper on a boat.
Rigjockey
In Gord we trust!
It sounds like you have the kind of luck like I do.
What are the chances of a rock launched from a lawn mower breaking an expensive window?
The chances are pretty good!
If not for bad luck I would have no luck.
Electric Chicken
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm gonna do if a dump truck breaks my windshield.
ironpony
Professional Pot-Stirrer
Throw away th' truck, an' run down th' road with a piece of plexiglass in font of ya?
mndriver
curmudgeon extraordinare
ironpony
Professional Pot-Stirrer
That would be embarrassing...
Electric Chicken
Well-Known Member
Yep. Well, a Corona shield anyways.Throw away th' truck, an' run down th' road with a piece of plexiglass in font of ya?
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
Well pump was running constantly, never reaching cutoff pressure.
I was scared... Thinking that pump which is like 100 feet down, needs replaced for a million gazillion dollars.
Then I noticed the gauge jumped from 35 to 55 when I tapped it with my finger.
I don't know...
I tried turning the cutoff pressure down thinking it's just getting weak. It was set to maintain 40-60 psi. No luck. It never shuts off but if I manually tripped it, it would stay off until you run a little bit of water, then kick back on.
I got tired of going down into the basement to flip the circuit breaker on and off every time I needed to run water.
Telling Sarah "if it's yellow, let it mellow. If it's brown, flush it down".
So I got to thinking.... I don't know how the pump can run indefinitely without either dead-locking against its own pressure or blowing some solder or glue joints loose. Unless it's worn out.
No idea how you're supposed to replace a pump that's 100 feet down and has a water pipe and two electrical wires going to it through small holes in the basement wall by the floor, without a back hoe or one of those big drilling rigs or something. Big money.
So I figured well the gauge is obviously full of rust particles from that shitty well water, I'll replace it just so I can see what kind of numbers I'm looking at.
Got a new pressure switch because I figure if the gauge is fucked up, so is the switch.
New switch and gauge, plumbed with an upwards trajectory towards the gauge so crap is less likely to accumulate in it:
New switch turns it on at 20 and off at 40. The old gauge was staying around 40 when I'd tap on it.
Nasty black shit inside the old switch:
I probably coulda just pulled those Phillips screws and cleaned out the black stuff but fuck it.
Hopefully the 20-40 range is good enough for a shower. If not, I'll go get a 30-50 for $20
I was scared... Thinking that pump which is like 100 feet down, needs replaced for a million gazillion dollars.
Then I noticed the gauge jumped from 35 to 55 when I tapped it with my finger.
I don't know...
I tried turning the cutoff pressure down thinking it's just getting weak. It was set to maintain 40-60 psi. No luck. It never shuts off but if I manually tripped it, it would stay off until you run a little bit of water, then kick back on.
I got tired of going down into the basement to flip the circuit breaker on and off every time I needed to run water.
Telling Sarah "if it's yellow, let it mellow. If it's brown, flush it down".
So I got to thinking.... I don't know how the pump can run indefinitely without either dead-locking against its own pressure or blowing some solder or glue joints loose. Unless it's worn out.
No idea how you're supposed to replace a pump that's 100 feet down and has a water pipe and two electrical wires going to it through small holes in the basement wall by the floor, without a back hoe or one of those big drilling rigs or something. Big money.
So I figured well the gauge is obviously full of rust particles from that shitty well water, I'll replace it just so I can see what kind of numbers I'm looking at.
Got a new pressure switch because I figure if the gauge is fucked up, so is the switch.
New switch and gauge, plumbed with an upwards trajectory towards the gauge so crap is less likely to accumulate in it:
New switch turns it on at 20 and off at 40. The old gauge was staying around 40 when I'd tap on it.
Nasty black shit inside the old switch:
I probably coulda just pulled those Phillips screws and cleaned out the black stuff but fuck it.
Hopefully the 20-40 range is good enough for a shower. If not, I'll go get a 30-50 for $20
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
My theory on this is the pump has some sort of safety valve that dumps water back into the abyss if it exceeds a certain pressure so it doesn't explode your plumbing system.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
A 5 dollar LED Christmas light strand.
It's got blue, red, green, and orange. And Oxford commas. Someone might get that.
So with 4 colors, why does it only cast blue light?
It's not like the blues are brighter than the others. They're all equal brightness as far as I can tell.
It's got blue, red, green, and orange. And Oxford commas. Someone might get that.
So with 4 colors, why does it only cast blue light?
It's not like the blues are brighter than the others. They're all equal brightness as far as I can tell.
gearjammer
jammer
you do know you can adjust the switch don't you it isnt a big deal
while you are at it check the air pressure in the tank if it isn't where it should be that is a sure way to burn up a pump
google how to do it the I think the air pressure has to be a few pounds of whatever the cut in pressure is or something like that I have it written down but it is in the cellar and I am to lazy to go down to get the instructions
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
I shut off the valve that supplies the house, then opened the valve that dumps the tank into the well.
Then when I removed the gauge, there was suction for a bit. Not much but it was steady for a minute. Then I removed the core from the Schrader valve at the top of the tank.
Tank was empty and zero pressure.
All valves closed, new switch, new gauge. I switched the circuit breaker on and it ran up to 140 and stopped.
It seemed like I had to run quite a bit of water in the bathroom sink before I heard the pump turn back on.
So I'm guessing the air/water ratio in the tank is correct.
At only a 40 psi max though, it might short-cycle during a shower or while washing dishes but whatever. At least it ain't running all the time.
gearjammer
jammer
Drain the tank by opening the closest faucet. Check the tank's pressure by placing an air pressure gauge on the air charging valve on the top of the tank. Add air if the pressure is more than 2 psi below the pump cut-in pressure.
Duck
Sarcastic remark goes here
This is 240 volts. Two hots, no neutral.
If I tap into one of the switched terminals (load side) and run a single wire up into the house, into a little plastic outlet box and connect it to the hot terminal on the outlet, then run a white wire from the neutral side of the outlet to a plug in a nearby outlet like in the kitchen just to connect to a neutral (which will lead back to the main bus bar in the panel) then I can plug a night light into the temporary outlet and have it serve as an indicator for when the well pump is running.
But I don't know if it will interfere with the 240 to the pump. The 240 is the result of both hots being put together. Can you tap 120 from one of those hots, by running it through a night light then to neutral or will it attempt to feed 240 to a 120 volt bulb?
Maybe I can just run a wire from each of the load terminals on the switch and bring them up into the house and connect two night lights in series so they can handle 240?
I'm sitting in the kitchen and just heard the well pump kick on, run for 15-20 seconds then stop. But nobody is running any water, it's been at least 30 minutes since the toilet was flushed, and nothing is leaking. I don't know why it just ran. Maybe the tank dump valve is slowly letting water leak back into the well?
If I tap into one of the switched terminals (load side) and run a single wire up into the house, into a little plastic outlet box and connect it to the hot terminal on the outlet, then run a white wire from the neutral side of the outlet to a plug in a nearby outlet like in the kitchen just to connect to a neutral (which will lead back to the main bus bar in the panel) then I can plug a night light into the temporary outlet and have it serve as an indicator for when the well pump is running.
But I don't know if it will interfere with the 240 to the pump. The 240 is the result of both hots being put together. Can you tap 120 from one of those hots, by running it through a night light then to neutral or will it attempt to feed 240 to a 120 volt bulb?
Maybe I can just run a wire from each of the load terminals on the switch and bring them up into the house and connect two night lights in series so they can handle 240?
I'm sitting in the kitchen and just heard the well pump kick on, run for 15-20 seconds then stop. But nobody is running any water, it's been at least 30 minutes since the toilet was flushed, and nothing is leaking. I don't know why it just ran. Maybe the tank dump valve is slowly letting water leak back into the well?
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