Battery terminal maintenance


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Anybody know how to read the instructions?

Load tested all four batteries. One was definitely weaker than the other three. I switched it to another spot, I’ll run it next week and test it again
 
View attachment 51565View attachment 51566
Anybody know how to read the instructions?

Load tested all four batteries. One was definitely weaker than the other three. I switched it to another spot, I’ll run it next week and test it again
Check the specific gravity.
Charge as needed.
REMOVE CHARGER (no BOOM!)
Select "Volts"
Voltage should be at least 12.4
Select "Amps" for 15 seconds
Voltage should be at least 9.6V

I don't do French, but that's roughly what it says.

Edit: forgot the step to set the draw to half the CCA
 
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Done for now.

No, I didn’t have any black Tremclad before anyone says anything. The battery hold downs have a rubbery coating on them, that that hold down is missing. I ordered a new one but won’t see it for a while.

Also, somewhat fuzzily I remember being told not to have your main cables, that go from the battery group to the truck, be hooked to the same battery. So I shifted the one positive cable over one battery spot, too. Now main negative is on one battery, and yet main positive is on a different battery.

It sounds good anyway :D
 
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New crimper works tits.

Cut to length
Crimp it
Solder it
Let it cool
Add heatshrink
(You did check the heat shrink can be added after, right? Right...?)
Heat said heatshrink
Let it cool

Install :cool:
 
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Also, somewhat fuzzily I remember being told not to have your main cables, that go from the battery group to the truck, be hooked to the same battery. So I shifted the one positive cable over one battery spot, too. Now main negative is on one battery, and yet main positive is on a different battery.

It sounds good anyway :D

Electrically, because they're all tied together in parallel, it makes no difference where on the circuit the truck is connected.
 
Electrically, because they're all tied together in parallel, it makes no difference where on the circuit the truck is connected.
I understand that, I think

What was explained to me, was that even parallel, the battery at the head of the group still does most of the “lifting”, so to speak.

All the amps would funnel through that one battery before they could be “used”

Maybe it’s bullshit I don’t know :dunno:

I’m going to find supper I’m tired of thinking about batteries
 
I understand that, I think

What was explained to me, was that even parallel, the battery at the head of the group still does most of the “lifting”, so to speak.

All the amps would funnel through that one battery before they could be “used”

Maybe it’s bullshit I don’t know :dunno:

I’m going to find supper I’m tired of thinking about batteries
That could be true, but only there are issues with the connecting cables.
 
That could be true, but only there are issues with the connecting cables.
One guy I worked for was the first guy to mention watching how the batteries were hooked up to the truck. He said he learned the hard way on one of his highway tractors

Another friend of mine used to run a shop. He said the Ford diesels, as an example, usually the battery closest to the starter was bad. The batteries were hooked up parallel like a big truck. Independent ground cables roughly the same length hooked to the block. Yet the “front” battery was usually cooked

All I can do is listen to older guys with more experience than me and try to draw from their experience. Maybe they’re right, maybe they’re wrong

The Ford factory connections were usually a leaded connection though, so perhaps the connection between the two batteries was weaker and forced the “front” battery to work harder. Maybe in a highway tractor the effects are mitigated with 2/0 cables and multiple connections .

You’ve been at this a lot longer than I have been, so I’ll defer to your wisdom.
 
One guy I worked for was the first guy to mention watching how the batteries were hooked up to the truck. He said he learned the hard way on one of his highway tractors

Another friend of mine used to run a shop. He said the Ford diesels, as an example, usually the battery closest to the starter was bad. The batteries were hooked up parallel like a big truck. Independent ground cables roughly the same length hooked to the block. Yet the “front” battery was usually cooked

All I can do is listen to older guys with more experience than me and try to draw from their experience. Maybe they’re right, maybe they’re wrong

The Ford factory connections were usually a leaded connection though, so perhaps the connection between the two batteries was weaker and forced the “front” battery to work harder. Maybe in a highway tractor the effects are mitigated with 2/0 cables and multiple connections .

You’ve been at this a lot longer than I have been, so I’ll defer to your wisdom.
They're right, they're just dealing with the effects of poor connections. Having the truck connections spread just protects the batteries from the bad interconnects by working them all harder when connections get weaker.

Vibration is actually a big killer of batteries, after excessive discharge.
 
rubbery coating

Paint the bracket whatever color, then slit some half inch heater hose and put it along the edge that points towards your battery posts. Viola better than factory. Also I didn’t notice if you did or not, I recommend putting positive to the opposite side from the hold down, just in case it comes loose.
hooked to the same battery

I also recommend putting one at each end of the parallel. That way you know the current has to flow through all batteries. If not. It will only follow the path of least resistance.
 

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