Fuel Economy Series 60 Fuel Mileage battle.....

This is super long and I didn't read thru it so excuse me if I repost what someone else said.
I replaced the baro sensor on mine and put in the ugly fix.
I have the exact same engine and have not had issues since. that was over 2 years and 100k miles ago.

BTW
can you tell me about your symptoms with your power divider?
 
BTW
can you tell me about your symptoms with your power divider?

My power divider? There was no symptoms I was driving home in the corner in the driveway comma, when I went to step on the fuel there was nothing there. You could hear the gears missing in the differential. A bearing failed on the power divider through shaft. When the power divider unloaded, it came apart.

I tried your Baro sensor trick and didn't like the results.
 
The "ugly fix" tricks the computer into thinking you are above a certain altitude. At which point, it stops using EGR.

But it also leans out your fuel too.

So yes, it "does things" but not in a way I am comfortable to make the computer work.
 
all you are doing is putting a resistor in the Baro sensor making the computer think it's above 6500 feet.

That resistor costs about $4 for a 5-pack. Takes about 20 minutes to actually gut the Baro sensor and solder it in place and then RTV it back in place.
 
it won't do it any good. What it's doing though, not enough like a race truck would suffer.
 
Well in April after Easter, I installed a full tilt exhaust manifold. It livened it up definitely.

But it still wasn't right.

I felt confident enough on it this week, I opted to have new injectors and injector cups installed.

3 of 6 injectors showed they were leaking fuel lately. That would follow with a series of oil samples that were testing for high soot levels, poor fuel mileage, high black smoke discharge and what feels like a vibration but was actually an injector stutter.

4 of the 6 injector cups were showing signs that they were going to start leaking sooner than later. O-rings were hard and brittle and one was starting to crack.

There's a special tool for removing the Injector cups on the 14L series 60. The tech ruined 3 of them today removing 4 cups.

Will see in the next couple days what the performance and MPG do for me.
 
And the latest...

So after my heart attack in July 2015 and the truck sitting for two months, there were lots of little things to work the kinks out of to get back on the road.

In September 2015, I had to install both a fan clutch because I couldn't get it to release at all. As well as I had a battery fail as well.

So a new clutch and a new set of four Interstate group 31 190 ah/700 cca battery were installed.

About that time I also started using aeolus drive tires.

I never was able to get better than about 5.8-6.0 mpg for fuel mileage and ts been dropping since. This week's low was around 5.3 mpg.

The past couple months I've had some weird electrical Gremlins showing up.

APU over charging, apu fuel pump burnt out this year and last. Lately I've had abs fault showing up, inverter would give an over load issue I thought was caused by a bad GFI outlet.

Fuel mileage was poor.

After a second Apu alternator went in last night, it failed two hours later, or was showing over charging to 16 volts.


And all I did was put in the alternator. Hadn't even started the truck.

That's when it clicked.


Batteries.


Had them tested this morning.

Two of four were bad.

Replaced the entire group.


Absolutely no more electrical Gremlins anywhere. Apu charging, abs fault, fuel mileage was 6.9 mpg today.

Makes me wonder if that was the problem for two+ years now. Inverter over load faults have been there since the batteries went in.
 
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Hows a couple of bad batteries gonna screw with your fuel economy? It only takes like 4-5 hp at the most to spin an alternator at full load.
 
Hows a couple of bad batteries gonna screw with your fuel economy? It only takes like 4-5 hp at the most to spin an alternator at full load.

Batteries can easily contribute, much like a bad ground can.

Anything that screws with the electrical current.

A bad battery would often have a pretty big effect on the operation of the sensors and modules, even causing engines to run lean, or even remain in open loop after reaching operating temperature.

Dealing with drivability issues at the dealer, I wouldn’t continue with diagnosis if there was an issue with the battery.
 
We had lab ossiliscopes back 30 years ago when I was going to school for a third year automotive diagnostic class in the 80's. All we dealt with is automotive electronic controls. Ford's EEC I-V, Chrysler, Bosch fuel injection, GM. I've got the factory manuals for all those Systems at home.

We'd spend a lot of time watching voltage patterns of injectors, baro sensors, knock sensors etc learning what each one did, how it worked and why it will react how it does.

All automotive control systems actually control grounds. All it does. Garbage in, garbage out. So troubleshooting always starts with bad battery connection and bad grounds. Regular maintenance should be cleaning terminals and inspect cables for frays and internal corrosion. That stuff will increase cable resistance exponentially. At the first sign of darkening, it's not a matter of repairs, it's too late. It's replacement time.

Splicing shit in doesn't work. Each splice increases resistance. Probably not enough for most to care about, but it's there.

When your control systems are working off 5 volts and maybe 15-50 mA (milliamps), now that little bit of resistance is a killer to the system.

Facebook group was talking how he was only seeing 0.2 to 4.8 volts on his throttle position sensor on a truck. That's all you'll ever see. Just how the system is designed. You can't go off the ends of the sweep or you'll freak out the computer. Yeah, the system voltage is 5 volt, but you have to have a continuous signal from 0-5 volts. So when you get to the extreme ends of the sensor, you'll still see voltages. 0.2 or 4.8. it's got to be there.

To have it drop off creates spikes. Milliamp spikes that cause major issues from the sensor side of the ecm to the driver side and outputs of the ecm.

Grounds cause similar problems. If you suspect a bad ground, hell, just use a jumper wire between a frame and chassis. Frame and engine. Engine and chassis. It's amazing how you can change the operation.


How do batteries cause this problem? My understanding is that the plates start to short out and arc across themselves. It will actually create signals inside the voltage that sets up magnetic fields. Self-inductance. Those signals create slight and subtle changes to either the input or output of the ecm and nothing gets done correctly. Suddenly you've got weak signals, then strong, then weak. All from a changing power supply.

One trick we'd do is put a small capacitor across a load to see if it would change operation of a sensor or injector. Amazing what that would do.

Imagine how a plumbing fixture works for dealing with water hammer. A capacitor works the same way. It absorbs voltage spikes.

Bad batteries will just jack you around into having so many Gremlins you don't know what to fix. ABS faults, inverter failure, voltage regulators, ecm spikes, injectors not operating correctly.

But they catch you off guard because you're normally not expecting them.
 
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4/12
YesWay, Merkel TX to Love's Leary TX - 377 miles, 54.85 gal, 6.9 mpg
4/13
Love's in Leary TX to Love's in Baxter TN - 579 miles, 81.74 gal. 7.1 MPG

Yeah, it's 20,000# too

2018-04-13_17.57.37.jpg
 
Huh....

Screenshot_20180414-182836~2.png
From the 5.3 mpg I've been averaging, the fuel savings is $220+ alone on this trip.

Half the price of batteries.
 

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