Put new tires on truck for better fuel economy.

Blazing Saddles is a classic.
 
Terry, are your "eco-tires" or whatever they're called, made out of a harder rubber compound than regular tires?

I know there's a difference in the hardness of the rubber between the ones on my passenger car, and the ones on my RV. The RV tires, which aren't designed for passenger comfort, are designed for less rolling resistance, and they use a harder rubber compound.

If your eco-tires are a harder rubber at 26/32 than the rubber used in the 32/32 tires, and if the extra hardness is enough, it COULD last as long as a regular tire.

I have no idea if they're a harder rubber though, and if they are harder, by how much. So I could be talking completely out of my ass as far as them lasting as long as regular tires. But it's possible, unless there's a limit to how hard they can make the rubber, and on regular tires, they're already as hard as they can be.

(Geez, .. with all that talk about rubber and hardness, ... I can already see the quoted post with "FIXED" under it.)

I don't know all the reasons it works. Part of it is changing to a low profile tire. Less rubber, less flex, same with the depth of tread. I am using Michelin's XDA Energy 22.5LP. It would take a long time to compare it to every possible tire out there. I use a personal example, moving from the Bridgestone 726 EL to the Michelin. Depending on what tire you start with, you could get more or even less savings. The X1 XDA Energy is an even better tire if you want to use a Super Single.
 
Since we're talking tires, does anyone know what the average weight difference is between steel, and aluminum? My truck takes low pro 24.5's, and is heavier than hell. I'm trying to shave some weight off, and thought that maybe I could do that by changing rims. I am also considering super singles, but I've heard bad things about them (winter traction, and you're screwed if you have a flat), so I don't know.

And, since we're also talking tires, which one has the least rolling resistance, with a winter type tread? I was looking at Continental eco's for drives, as I already have HSL 2's as steers. I believe the HDL eco's have a 111 rolling resistance, whereas the General D660's I currently have have a 145 rolling resistance. I wish I could put on the HSL 2's as drives, as they only have a 105, but I wan't some winter traction.

John
 
I don't know all the reasons it works. Part of it is changing to a low profile tire. Less rubber, less flex, same with the depth of tread. I am using Michelin's XDA Energy 22.5LP. It would take a long time to compare it to every possible tire out there. I use a personal example, moving from the Bridgestone 726 EL to the Michelin. Depending on what tire you start with, you could get more or even less savings. The X1 XDA Energy is an even better tire if you want to use a Super Single.

I just checked the rolling resistance of that tire and WOW!! it's only an 86! If I went with super singles, and got that tire, what would be the average fuel savings, comparing it to the 145 rolling resistance General D660 tires I have now? Does that super single have a winter type tread?

Another question I had, is when they show rolling resistance, it's for ONE tire, right? If that's the case, then super singles ARE the way to go! Doubling my 145 rolling resistance on my D660's, comparing it to the 86 of the super single, is quite a difference!

​John
 
See, this is why I have no problems with Tim. He jokes, but isn't insulting. He can hold a conversation and even be helpful. I have tried to look it up on the Internet, but haven't been able to find any information.

MXS02607
his emission data is Caterpillar's best estimate for this rating. If actual emissions are required then an emission test needs to be run on your engine.
Serial Number (Machine)
Serial Number (Engine)MXS02607
Sales ModelC15
Build Date2004-09-20
Interlock Code ProgressionNo Interlock Code Progression
As Shipped Data
Engine Arrangement Number2615478
Certification Arrangement
Certification Arrangement
Test Spec Number0K5936
CertificationOH_EPA/CARB H-HD Engine not for urban bus
CertificationAftertreatment Required
Labeled Model Year
Family Code
Flash File2588360
Flash File Progression3298537
CORR FL Power at RPM450 HP (335.5 KW ) at 1800 rpms
Advertised Power435hp 2,100RPM

It is a 435Hp/1650 Peak Torque rating
 
Terry, are your "eco-tires" or whatever they're called, made out of a harder rubber compound than regular tires?

I know there's a difference in the hardness of the rubber between the ones on my passenger car, and the ones on my RV. The RV tires, which aren't designed for passenger comfort, are designed for less rolling resistance, and they use a harder rubber compound.

If your eco-tires are a harder rubber at 26/32 than the rubber used in the 32/32 tires, and if the extra hardness is enough, it COULD last as long as a regular tire.

I have no idea if they're a harder rubber though, and if they are harder, by how much. So I could be talking completely out of my ass as far as them lasting as long as regular tires. But it's possible, unless there's a limit to how hard they can make the rubber, and on regular tires, they're already as hard as they can be.

(Geez, .. with all that talk about rubber and hardness, ... I can already see the quoted post with "FIXED" under it.)
I've "punched" a few tires with my tire durometer and they all are within 8 points of one another, some recaps punched higher.

They punch from 68 to 76, some recaps got to 80. The higher the number the harder the tire.
 
his emission data is Caterpillar's best estimate for this rating. If actual emissions are required then an emission test needs to be run on your engine.
Serial Number (Machine)
Serial Number (Engine)MXS02607
Sales ModelC15
Build Date2004-09-20
Interlock Code ProgressionNo Interlock Code Progression
As Shipped Data
Engine Arrangement Number2615478
Certification Arrangement
Certification Arrangement
Test Spec Number0K5936
CertificationOH_EPA/CARB H-HD Engine not for urban bus
CertificationAftertreatment Required
Labeled Model Year
Family Code
Flash File2588360
Flash File Progression3298537
CORR FL Power at RPM450 HP (335.5 KW ) at 1800 rpms
Advertised Power435hp 2,100RPM

It is a 435Hp/1650 Peak Torque rating

See Terry, ask and you shall receive, its a 435 not a 625.

Thanks Mr. Haney for the timely response!
 
I best not post the scene I like best.........today's nilly willy's would say its racist when in fact its just the opposite.
 
Since we're talking tires, does anyone know what the average weight difference is between steel, and aluminum?

Alcoa aluminum wheels will save about 40% to 50% over steel. Be sure to use them on the inside on the dual setup.

If I went with super singles, and got that tire, what would be the average fuel savings, comparing it to the 145 rolling resistance General D660 tires I have now? Does that super single have a winter type tread?

A full set of supersingles are supposed to save about 1mpg over a full set of dual drive tires.

Additionally there is about 200lbs per axle weight savings over an axle equipped with aluminum wheels in a dual setup.


But.

If you get a flat with duals, you still have another tire to carry the axle end so you can limp it to the next off ramp, rather than be forced to sit on the shoulder of a busy highway.

Can't do that when a supersingle goes flat. You will ruin an expensive rim.
 
See Terry, ask and you shall receive, its a 435 not a 625.

Thanks Mr. Haney for the timely response!

Yes, thank you Mr. Haney. I still don't understand. I clearly states on the stickers, that the max HP is 625. Since I have the Bully Dog, whith their advertized improvement, I guessitimate I have a little over 500 HP and a little over 1800 Torque. Does this sound right? I am getting above 7 MPG almost all the time and 7.5 MPG most of the time and ocassionally above 8 MPG. Would anyone recommend another tune? The perfect balance between power and economy. I do drive very conseritively. I am pretty happy with where it is right now, though I am willing to tweak it.
 
Alcoa aluminum wheels will save about 40% to 50% over steel. Be sure to use them on the inside on the dual setup.



A full set of supersingles are supposed to save about 1mpg over a full set of dual drive tires.

Additionally there is about 200lbs per axle weight savings over an axle equipped with aluminum wheels in a dual setup.


But.

If you get a flat with duals, you still have another tire to carry the axle end so you can limp it to the next off ramp, rather than be forced to sit on the shoulder of a busy highway.

Can't do that when a supersingle goes flat. You will ruin an expensive rim.

Additionally, you need to find out what axle you have. Some axles will flex under the offset of the rims for Super Singles. This will cause the cupping you see on the inside edge of of so many Super Singles. If you have the weaker axle you can get a zero offset rim, they can be found, but aren't as common.
 
I best not post the scene I like best.........today's nilly willy's would say its racist when in fact its just the opposite.


Ah yes....I can see it now,


Clevon Little pulls the gun on himself and says...." Nobody move! Or the African American person" gets it!"


Political correctness has ruined some very good comedy!
 
Alcoa aluminum wheels will save about 40% to 50% over steel. Be sure to use them on the inside on the dual setup.

That being said, do you know what kind of poundage we're talking about? With 24.5" rims? I have the old Budd style, "2 hole" steel rim. I'm debating on whether to stick with duals, or go with super singles. But, since my truck is a 'lead sled', I'm trying to shave weight, and gain mpg's. I found some aluminum 24.5" rims on Ebay for $200 ea., that are for 'budd' rims. So, I'm trying to figure out if spending $1600 on 8 rims is worth the weight savings over what I have now. If I went that route, then I would obviously get the least rolling resistance tire out there, to put on those new rims.

When they list the rolling resistance on a tire meant for duals, is that number for the individual tire, or for the duals? I'm talking about Michelin's rolling resistance comparison on their website. It shows the tires I have now, General D660's, as having a 145, whereas the Continental HDL eco having a 111. It shows my steers as having a 105, so I'm imagining that the numbers are for individual tires? So, am I correct in assuming that you would take 145, and double it, for a dual setup? That's where I'm getting confused on all of this. If I'm correct, then I could see where the super singles could save 1 mpg! On the other hand, I am afraid of getting a flat, then I'm screwed on the road!

​John
 
Additionally, you need to find out what axle you have. Some axles will flex under the offset of the rims for Super Singles. This will cause the cupping you see on the inside edge of of so many Super Singles. If you have the weaker axle you can get a zero offset rim, they can be found, but aren't as common.

This probably doesn't mean anything, but when I put the truck on 'ramps' to grease it, if I put the outside dual on the ramp, then once I had an axle seal leak start. I was told by someone that the next time I do that, to put the ramp on the inside dual, to relive the pressure.

John
 

That being said, do you know what kind of poundage we're talking about? With 24.5" rims? I have the old Budd style, "2 hole" steel rim. I'm debating on whether to stick with duals, or go with super singles. But, since my truck is a 'lead sled', I'm trying to shave weight, and gain mpg's. I found some aluminum 24.5" rims on Ebay for $200 ea., that are for 'budd' rims. So, I'm trying to figure out if spending $1600 on 8 rims is worth the weight savings over what I have now. If I went that route, then I would obviously get the least rolling resistance tire out there, to put on those new rims.


When they list the rolling resistance on a tire meant for duals, is that number for the individual tire, or for the duals? I'm talking about Michelin's rolling resistance comparison on their website. It shows the tires I have now, General D660's, as having a 145, whereas the Continental HDL eco having a 111. It shows my steers as having a 105, so I'm imagining that the numbers are for individual tires? So, am I correct in assuming that you would take 145, and double it, for a dual setup? That's where I'm getting confused on all of this. If I'm correct, then I could see where the super singles could save 1 mpg! On the other hand, I am afraid of getting a flat, then I'm screwed on the road!

​John

It is for one tire. But, what is the difference if you multipy both RR by eight. The difference is still the same. 111 is good, but nowheres close to the best which I think is 89. Of course they are more expensive tires.
 

This probably doesn't mean anything, but when I put the truck on 'ramps' to grease it, if I put the outside dual on the ramp, then once I had an axle seal leak start. I was told by someone that the next time I do that, to put the ramp on the inside dual, to relive the pressure.

John

Yes, that would make sense. Keep the weight as close to the center as possible.
 

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