Brake chambers


You're the one who mentioned rusty bits falling apart in the first place. I said replace it and you said nope.

So again what kind of rust are we talking about that can render air lines unusable is it that you'd rather not replace?
 
You're the one who mentioned rusty bits falling apart in the first place. I said replace it and you said nope.

So again what kind of rust are we talking about that can render air lines unusable is it that you'd rather not replace?
Where did I say rusty bits falling off?


Or are you referring to the comment about airlines corroding to the chamber.

You have a brass fitting in an aluminum case. At least on a maxican.

Even on the brake chamber for a straight brake, the dissimilar metal corrode together of brass and steel.

Fitting break. Now you get to replace the air lines.
 
Did you mean the air line rubber itself breaking? In which case, yeah replace it.

You used the word corroded which can be either rust or rubber rot.

And I already quoted it once. Go back and look at what you're typing.
 
I just want some clarification. Why you'd not replace something bad enough that touching it destroys it.

If it's corroded rubber, replace it.

If it's corroded metal, replace it.

Either way it sounds like it's trouble waiting for opportunity.
 
I just want some clarification. Why you'd not replace something bad enough that touching it destroys it.

If it's corroded rubber, replace it.

If it's corroded metal, replace it.

Either way it sounds like it's trouble waiting for opportunity.
Go buy a couple Chambers and replace them yourself.

Maybe you'll understand what I'm talking about.
 
Where did I say rusty bits falling off?


Or are you referring to the comment about airlines corroding to the chamber.

You have a brass fitting in an aluminum case. At least on a maxican.

Even on the brake chamber for a straight brake, the dissimilar metal corrode together of brass and steel.

Fitting break. Now you get to replace the air lines.
You're talking about rust weld like I said. That's what we call it here. Two bits of metal so rusted together it's as if they're welded. Rust weld.

I had it happen to me with my SUV's rotors stuck to the hubs. No way around it, they wouldn't come apart. So replacement of both was necessary on each side.
 
You're talking about rust weld like I said. That's what we call it here. Two bits of metal so rusted together it's as if they're welded. Rust weld.

I had it happen to me with my SUV's rotors stuck to the hubs. No way around it, they wouldn't come apart. So replacement of both was necessary on each side.
Actually when two different metals are put together like aluminum and brass or aluminum and steel and a protectant isn’t put between the two like anti-seize or pipe dope. There is a chemical reaction that takes place and bonds them together. Similar yes to the rust weld you speak of. Sometimes great finess is required to get the fittings at the end of the air line to not break during removal.
 
Actually when two different metals are put together like aluminum and brass or aluminum and steel and a protectant isn’t put between the two like anti-seize or pipe dope. There is a chemical reaction that takes place and bonds them together. Similar yes to the rust weld you speak of. Sometimes great finess is required to get the fittings at the end of the air line to not break during removal.
That's interesting to know.

@mndriver used the word "corroded" though so that's what my line of questioning was based on.

Of course rust is also a chemical reaction.
 
That's interesting to know

Its exactly like a dry cell battery... it has to have a complete electric circuit for the "galvanic current" to flow that causes the corrosion.

Galvanic corrosion (also called bimetallic corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another, in the presence of an electrolyte. A similar galvanic reaction is exploited in primary cells to generate a useful electrical voltage to power portable devices.

Galvanic Corrosion
 
@JunkYardDog5958 has weird brakes on his drives. The front axle has 3030 LS maxi cans and the rear axle has 30 LS brake Chambers only. Same as a steer axle. Just a steer is 20LS on his truck. Werner orders and specs some stupid ****

When he was in town last week, he'd blown a pancake on the 30 LS chamber. It was $40 for a complete chamber if I remember him saying. A pancake was $8. Like $17 for two.

Instead of having to cut all the rods etc, I used a cordless 1/2" impact and was done in less than 10 minutes.

Had I needed to cage a maxi can, same procedure, but I'd have had to cage the spring break first.

@JunkYardDog5958 was of the mind, always replace the cans.

He'd never seen a diaphragm replaced before and was amazed at how easy it was to do.

Yes. You have to ensure it's not rotted out, but still.

Experience has shown me more times than not, when you come to replace a can, you generally break off the air hose that's corroded into the chamber at the same time. Forcing you to replace the can, cut a rod AND replace your air lines.

Easier to just grab a new clamp and a new diaphragm.
Agreed. My truck is set up similar. I carry pancakes (diaphragms) on the truck for the rear drive chambers. I’ve got one new clamp and one new airline as spares also.

But a brake can that’s rusted out needs replacing.
 
I don't remember the last service diaphragm I had go bad. It's always been the Park Side and of course you can't change those out anymore thanks to the shallow end of the gene pool.
 

Back
Top