ESPAR Heater Low Voltage Shut Down

[Hammer166]

That all looks good. I'm not sure how those are wired up, but whatever line it uses for its voltage sense is the one to trace connections on.

 

[8978]

That's good but does your Espar shut down when engine is on? If not, try running Espar and see what happens. Maybe you can run Espar with engine running. You may have to turn it back on once your engine is running

 

[8978]

Also, when your unit shuts off does it shut off completely all at once or does it spin down normally?

 

[Injun]

That's good but does your Espar shut down when engine is on?

No. It goes into standby mode. I don't need the ESPAR when the engine is running and if I have to run the engine to use it, its purpose is kind of defeated, ain't it?

 

[Hammer166]

Don't know if you have this or not: http://www.sprinter-rv.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/2013_Espar_AirtronicD2-D4_Repair_Manual.pdf

 

[mndriver]

I'd start with cleaning all of your battery connections and checking your grounds.

When you've taken them off, I'd hit the batteries with a carbon pile load tester.

This is the one I have and use on all my vehicles.

Ironton Battery/Carbon Pile Load Tester — 500 Amps | Automotive Diagnostics| Northern Tool + Equipment


If you don't want to buy it, then get a shop to do it for you.

Just make sure they don't use the silly 125 amp load tester. They aren't worth it IMO.

 

[8978]

Geezus H.

Can you turn the unit back on from standby to running when the engine is on? And, answer my other question about shut down!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[8978]

I do know a little bit about these fucking units!

 

[ironpony]

Have y'all had your batteries load tested yet this year? Might have a bad cell loading the array down.

 

[8978]

The Espar doesn't really shut down until below 11 volts for 20 seconds. You can jump the Yellow and Red wires and cause a forced start with the engine running. If it still shuts down it's not voltage. If it shuts down abruptly with no spin down it's a fatal error in the combustion chamber and usually the fan causing the unit to display low voltage when in fact it's the fan sucking the power. On startup these units take up to 8 amps for the glow plug. Voltage must be measured at the Espar, no place else.

 

[mndriver]

I don't think the issue is the 12.2 volts.

That's easily changed in the setting as the video shows


The real issue I see you having is how quickly the batteries are reaching that point.

So the symptoms are the espar shutting down.

The problem is likely in the batteries. Either a bad battery or in the connection between the two.

I'd verify those are good first before attacking the espar.

 

[Injun]

Geezus H.

Can you turn the unit back on from standby to running when the engine is on?

The keypad is disabled when the engine is on.

And, answer my other question about shut down!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The ESPAR stops running when the engine is turned on. It cycles down and stops.

I do know a little bit about these ****ing units!

That's why I mentioned you specifically. No worries.. my guy is a mechanic and he gets a little frustrated trying to explain things without being right there to show me or just kick me out and do it himself. It's not that I'm dumb or can't do it. It's that I don't always understand the question being asked, so I end up answering a question that wasn't asked.

 

[Injun]

I don't think the issue is the 12.2 volts.

That's easily changed in the setting as the video shows


The real issue I see you having is how quickly the batteries are reaching that point.

So the symptoms are the espar shutting down.

The problem is likely in the batteries. Either a bad battery or in the connection between the two.

I'd verify those are good first before attacking the espar.

It's a 12 volt system. I would expect to see batteries at 12.something at rest. It's the alternator that runs the volts up to 14.

 

[mndriver]

Normal resting voltage is 12.6-12.8. charging volts is considered 13.8 (summer heat) to 14.2 ( winter cold).

The espar sucks a lot of power I've learned. About 3-5 amps and up to 9 on start up.

I'd question running one of these for 10 hours without the tripac or similar to recharge the batteries.

I'm seriously not impressed with the system.

I'd much rather have a hydronic heater instead of the airtronic. It would do a much better job of warming the engine and I could use the 125-140 degree coolant to heat the cab using the heater cores.

Eberspaecher - Truck Heaters, Cab Heaters, Engine Heaters, Coolant Heaters

 

[mndriver]

This is what espar claims it draws for amps.

It's not been my experience.

It starts in boost mode and then steps down.

 

[Hammer166]

4 amps shouldn't be a big deal with healthy batteries, although I've always thought the exhaust from these should dump into the battery box to keep the temps up.

 

[mndriver]

I got my truck in 2012. Feb 2013, the espar I bought with the truck, the fan unit burned out. Like $300 to repair / replace that part. Used reman unit with 12 month 1000 hour warranty was like $425 plus core. it lasted 13 months. Just enough to get it out of warranty.

I bought a brand new from the factory unit in Feb 2014. Been using it since.


The biggy is.....

Don't let these units short cycle. Turn them off when you are getting ready to leave and then when you finally get parked, turn them on for the night.

Don't let them run for less than 15 minutes. Let them get good and hot and it will prevent carboning up the burn chamber.

My battery box is plastic. Be nice to warm the batteries, but the heat would be enough to melt the cases and the battery box.

 

[Hammer166]

I got my truck in 2012. Feb 2013, the espar I bought with the truck, the fan unit burned out. Like $300 to repair / replace that part. Used reman unit with 12 month 1000 hour warranty was like $425 plus core. it lasted 13 months. Just enough to get it out of warranty.

I bought a brand new from the factory unit in Feb 2014. Been using it since.


The biggy is.....

Don't let these units short cycle. Turn them off when you are getting ready to leave and then when you finally get parked, turn them on for the night.

Don't let them run for less than 15 minutes. Let them get good and hot and it will prevent carboning up the burn chamber.

My battery box is plastic. Be nice to warm the batteries, but the heat would be enough to melt the cases and the battery box.

Just duct it underneath, let the heat rise, it shouldn't get too hot that way.

 

[Blood]

I bought a D2 on clearance last spring for 3 or 4 hundred bucks from the local spreader dealer.
I don't recall whether it was marked down to 400 or 500 but I offered a hundred less and they took it.
I haven't installed it yet because I didn't need it before...
and now it's too cold to mess with.

 

[Blood]

Just duct it underneath, let the heat rise, it shouldn't get too hot that way.

Good idea...
I might let @Duck do that.


I don't know about the bunk heaters but I had a coolant heater before and it would shoot a few little sparks on start up sometimes.
Dunno if that's normal or not but I'd be leery about ducting directly into the box.