2018 gardening thread

[GAnthony]

i gotta go out and spray that....."wet and forget" on my stockade fencing, and the concrete walls. they do not get sun at all, and that green crap grows on'em...

thing is, much like weed killer, you gotta have a "few days" of dry weather so the stuff will work


but let me ask all of you this..

i have a long length of stockade fencing. maybe about 60 feet, i dunno, i;ll measure it some day..

it is about 7-8 years old now.

i let the fence dry out, before i applied the stain to it. (as recommended by the fence company, about 3 months)

the "neighbors side" the stain is great..and it gets very little to NO sun, (thus the green crap growing on it)

my side, the side with the support pipes, and support beams, the stain ALWAYS peels, and it THIS SIDE, that gets ALL the sun.....!!!!

makes no sense to me. i get the stain from a true value (or maybe it's an ACE store), for years.

my old stockade fencing NEVER did this, the stain would just fade.

i know i can ask the hardware store paint guy, just wondering if anyone here has had the same problem or has any idea what's going on with the yearly peeling.

thanks in advance

 

[dave350]

i gotta go out and spray that....."wet and forget" on my stockade fencing, and the concrete walls. they do not get sun at all, and that green crap grows on'em...

thing is, much like weed killer, you gotta have a "few days" of dry weather so the stuff will work


but let me ask all of you this..

i have a long length of stockade fencing. maybe about 60 feet, i dunno, i;ll measure it some day..

it is about 7-8 years old now.

i let the fence dry out, before i applied the stain to it. (as recommended by the fence company, about 3 months)

the "neighbors side" the stain is great..and it gets very little to NO sun, (thus the green crap growing on it)

my side, the side with the support pipes, and support beams, the stain ALWAYS peels, and it THIS SIDE, that gets ALL the sun.....!!!!

makes no sense to me. i get the stain from a true value (or maybe it's an ACE store), for years.

my old stockade fencing NEVER did this, the stain would just fade.

i know i can ask the hardware store paint guy, just wondering if anyone here has had the same problem or has any idea what's going on with the yearly peeling.

thanks in advance

A couple thoughts I had:
1) There’s still a chance the wood wasn’t dry enough when it was coated. Was it treated lumber? If so, and it was real wet when it was installed and some of it isn’t exposed to sunlight it might not have dried out enough.
2) quality of the product. Do you remember what the original product was? Also, was it a one step product or did it need a primer (so to speak) that would aid in bonding?
3) Did the “paint guy” know his products that he was selling? I’m not bashing your local business I just don’t know their level of knowledge about the product.
4) is the peeling happening in different areas every year? Is it the original first coat coming off in different spots every year possibly?

If you take a couple pics I can show them to my rep at Sherwin Williams and see what he says. If you know the original product I can pass that along as well and maybe he can recommend something.

 

[GAnthony]

A couple thoughts I had:
1) There’s still a chance the wood wasn’t dry enough when it was coated. Was it treated lumber? If so, and it was real wet when it was installed and some of it isn’t exposed to sunlight it might not have dried out enough.
2) quality of the product. Do you remember what the original product was? Also, was it a one step product or did it need a primer (so to speak) that would aid in bonding?
3) Did the “paint guy” know his products that he was selling? I’m not bashing your local business I just don’t know their level of knowledge about the product.
4) is the peeling happening in different areas every year? Is it the original first coat coming off in different spots every year possibly?

If you take a couple pics I can show them to my rep at Sherwin Williams and see what he says. If you know the original product I can pass that along as well and maybe he can recommend something.

i went to the hardware store, a true value.

1) the fence company rep told me to wait at least 3 months before i paint or stain it, i choose stain, a latex type from true value.

2) as far as i know,k the stain is one coat, no primer needed.

3) i think this particular hardware store they pretty much know thier paints. they even mix paints the old way, by measuring the blends, rather than a computer do it for them.

4) sometimes, the stain peels in different areas, sometimes the same spot. i even get bubble pop ups once in a while.

the original product is the "Woodsman" brand of true value stain.


the wood, as far as i can see, is as dry as possible.

the paint guy told me, i may have to sand down the fence and start over again.

this is just strange, ONLY ONE SIDE of that "newish" stockade fence is doing this, the sunny side, not the side that gets no sun.

the fence itself would be "middle quality/price wood", as opposed to the expensive wood, or the cheapest


i can post some pics here:

believe it or not, this is the good side of that fence, with lots of scratches form the jerkwad former neighbors..

and these are from the bad side, the side that gets sun all day long, but also suffers from wind swept rain, snow as well.

 

[GAnthony]

this place only allows 5 pics at a time, here is the last

 

[Agent_Z]

Short on money is the standard for me since 09.
That’s a cool design I like it. I was looking at a 2x4 frame with the ribbed clear panels covering the structure. I have access to left over materials so coming across 2x4’s is pretty easy. I’d just have to buy the panels.

They are extremely easy to build. Attach the 2x4's to the panels with fencing staples. The outer frames are all up to you at that point. The one I was given had 2x4s below the door frame ; a classic rectangular frame. You could do 4x4's or or 6x6's and use a paddle bit to drill holes for stakes if you wanted it to be sturdier and still be mobile. We rarely deal with heavy wind here where I live.

Just make sure that the skin is meant for greenhouses. That crap they sell at Lowe's or Home Depot for job sites (painting, etc.) doesn't hold up very well.

 

[GAnthony]

i sprayed the heck outta my backyard neighbors area that abuts to my property, with LOTS of weed killer.

no worries, the house is empty of any renters....or shall i say deadbeats..??

i hate having thier weeds come up from under my fence.

there IS a sale going on at Lowe's for.....weed B gone...

normally 9.95 per bottle, so i pigged out and got 4 bottles, tomorrow, maybe 4 more.

i also sprayed the entire front sidewalk, and curbing area.

i hate weeds on my sidewalk and the curbing area...

i'm goin' weed killing crazy.....!!!!

 

[Agent_Z]

i sprayed the heck outta my backyard neighbors area that abuts to my property, with LOTS of weed killer.

no worries, the house is empty of any renters....or shall i say deadbeats..??

i hate having thier weeds come up from under my fence.

there IS a sale going on at Lowe's for.....weed B gone...

normally 9.95 per bottle, so i pigged out and got 4 bottles, tomorrow, maybe 4 more.

i also sprayed the entire front sidewalk, and curbing area.

i hate weeds on my sidewalk and the curbing area...

i'm goin' weed killing crazy.....!!!!

What's always pissed me off about weed killer, especially glyphosate (main ingredient in Round-Up), is how expensive a gallon of it is. $20, $30, or even $50 for a gallon of the fancy stuff at Lowe's or Home Depot, and I can get a 25 or 30 gallon drum for $6 or $8 a gallon at a farmer's supply store in bulk. You're paying for the plastic container. --- "Extended Killing" this, and "Longer Lasting" that. Bleh... Pay $60 for a gallon of crap because it says "Lasts Longer!" --- The chemicals have a shelf life of several years if kept sealed. 2,4D is a little bit cheaper if you're just looking to kill off broad leaf weeds. Down here we can get it for $4 or $5 a gallon if we buy a barrel of it.

 

[tommyh]

my popcorn is coming up.
looks promising so far
I am wanting to find a Grancy Greybeard Tree,reasonable priced
They are hard to find around here
but they smell so dang good

 

[GAnthony]

What's always pissed me off about weed killer, especially glyphosate (main ingredient in Round-Up), is how expensive a gallon of it is. $20, $30, or even $50 for a gallon of the fancy stuff at Lowe's or Home Depot, and I can get a 25 or 30 gallon drum for $6 or $8 a gallon at a farmer's supply store in bulk. You're paying for the plastic container. --- "Extended Killing" this, and "Longer Lasting" that. Bleh... Pay $60 for a gallon of crap because it says "Lasts Longer!" --- The chemicals have a shelf life of several years if kept sealed. 2,4D is a little bit cheaper if you're just looking to kill off broad leaf weeds. Down here we can get it for $4 or $5 a gallon if we buy a barrel of it.

i never thought of going to a farm store. we had a couple here, far from my house, and they closed,. there is (or was) tractor supply way farther south of me, near the CT line.......(40 miles one way) so for me, i gotta justify the gasoline use both ways compared to the .8ths of a mile to Lowes....

 

[dave350]

My mistake. They’re Black Krim tomatoes not Dark Krim. For some reason I do that a lot.

 

[Agent_Z]

i never thought of going to a farm store. we had a couple here, far from my house, and they closed,. there is (or was) tractor supply way farther south of me, near the CT line.......(40 miles one way) so for me, i gotta justify the gasoline use both ways compared to the .8ths of a mile to Lowes....

If you have a large yard with weed problems, it can be worth buying a 15 to 25 gallon drum of whichever chemical that you need. It's much cheaper in the long run, and like I said the stuff will store for a few years. Typically the good stuff will come in a concentrate as it's expected to be diluted and used in a sprayer. The crap you buy at a lawn and garden store is already watered down in most cases. I know of no Lowe's or Home Depot here in Texas that actually sells concentrated chemicals. We use the glysophate for keeping fences from being overgrown. Farmers typically use the 2,4-D for spraying fields and pastures to keep the grazing pristine.

If you have unwanted trees, a drill with a paddle bit gets the job done. Drill to the center of a large limb, or directly into the trunk in several places and fill the holes with the chemical of your choice. Tree problem solved. Some guys will plug the holes with cork or wooden dowel, or go overboard with the stump kill "plugs." I've never had any problems with smaller trees. I just let them die and then cut them off at the trunk when they start to rot the following year.

If any of you guys know where I can find Diazinon ... I'd kill for some of that stuff right now. Stupid EPA... Chiggers don't die from anything else except fire!! None of the places around here carry it anymore, and I can't find it online anywhere. It requires some kind of approval now to use.

 

[dave350]

I spoke with the SW rep. Of course, take all this as you wish. They and me are only looking at pics but I thought I’d try to help.
One opinion is that the wood *could* have “caramelized” a bit during the milling and that would make it difficult for the stain to penetrate.

They suggested power washing, followed by sanding to get any possible loose material off and then perhaps recoating with a paint or stain.

 

[GAnthony]

I spoke with the SW rep. Of course, take all this as you wish. They and me are only looking at pics but I thought I’d try to help.
One opinion is that the wood *could* have “caramelized” a bit during the milling and that would make it difficult for the stain to penetrate.

They suggested power washing, followed by sanding to get any possible loose material off and then perhaps recoating with a paint or stain.

i will sand off what i can. under some of those chips/peels, i can see bare wood, but i cannot say if any of it is caramelized. that's a new one on me.

i suppose that happens when the wood gets hot, during the milling process..??

thanks for the info...!!!

 

[dave350]

i will sand off what i can. under some of those chips/peels, i can see bare wood, but i cannot say if any of it is caramelized. that's a new one on me.

i suppose that happens when the wood gets hoot, during the milling process..??

thanks for the info...!!!

Your welcome. Hope it helps.

Yes the heat from the milling process. Friction from the saw blades. I’ve never heard that either but I also haven’t done too many exterior wood staining projects. Makes sense. I’ve gotton wood fairly hot if I’m ripping something down at a 45 degree angle and it’s a long run.

 

[GAnthony]

Your welcome. Hope it helps.

Yes the heat from the milling process. Friction from the saw blades. I’ve never heard that either but I also haven’t done too many exterior wood staining projects. Makes sense. I’ve gotton wood fairly hot if I’m ripping something down at a 45 degree angle and it’s a long run.

i too have gotten wood so hot, smoke came from the cut. i was in a hurry that day i guess.

 

[dave350]

 

[Injun]

If any of you guys know where I can find Diazinon ... I'd kill for some of that stuff right now.

I haven't seen it in years. It worked great for fleas as well.

We're not allowed to have stuff that actually kills bugs. Or weeds, for that matter. Yellow jackets aren't affected by Black Flag wasp killer. They fly away and then return an hour later like it's nothing. The weed and feed we've used seems to make the dandelions bloom faster. EPA doesn't want us killing things, I guess.

 

[Injun]

Oh... Se7in Dust seems to work well.

That's still available.

 

[GAnthony]

Oh... Se7in Dust seems to work well.

That's still available.

i use the spray Sevin.....i feel it is better than the dust. both wash away in even the lightest rain anyway's.

there is a diazinon product that i use, works well. i cannot recall where i got it, maybe Lowes or Home Depot??

it comes in a cardboard shaker "can".

i still have a bag (nearly empty) of diazinon that is old, and been using that when needed as well.

 

[dave350]

Here’s where I’m at with my garlic. It looks like it might be getting close. It has some leaves that are turning brown. What I’ve read and seen on You Tube is I should wait until the stem is brown from the ground to a few inches up. Y’all tell me what you think. Also, this about twenty heads give or take so do I need to dry them?

@GAnthony