Breaking wheel studs

[coalbucket]

I drive a 2006 kenworth T800 tri axle dump. I have a problem,my front axle wheel studs have been breaking, and I mean alot of them. It started about a month ago, they are breaking on both sides, sometimes two or three a day. I've checked the king pins, the wheel bearings, checked for bent wheel, checked the wheel center hole for wear, I can't find anything wrong. Maybe someone has had this happen and can help me.:bullhorn:

 

[rebel]

Hmmmmmm................ you've checked all the obvious things.
Think hard and if something, anything happened a month ago.
New tires, brake job, big pothole, etc.

 

[Racer X 69]

Do you run the lugs down snug and then torque them with a torque wrench, to the proper torque?

 

[WildChild]

The only time I have seen them break is when someone is too hard on the lug nuts, over tightening them as Racer suggests. Proper torque is very very important. Brian had wheels fly off a garbage truck and nearly kill a guy standing at a gas pump, doing thousands of dollars in damage simply because the mechanic jacked the psi up on his impact wrench.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Les2]

Is it just the old studs breaking or are the new ones breaking also?

 

[blackw900]

I'd tend to agree with the "overtightening" theory...That's the main reason that these studs break most of the time.

 

[coalbucket]

I torque them to 500 ft. pounds with a torque wrench, that is suggested torque by kenworth. the new ones break as well as the old ones.

 

[rebel]

I torque them to 500 ft. pounds with a torque wrench, that is suggested torque by kenworth. the new ones break as well as the old ones.

Not trying to be smarty, but the 500 lbs is for the nut, not the stud installation.
You might want to double check the specs on that so there's no confusion.


http://www.conmet.com/pdfs/Hub_Service_Manual.pdf

 

[SweetDaddy]

Not trying to be smarty, but the 599 lbs is for the nut, not the stud installation.
You might want to double check the specs on that so there's no confusion.


http://www.conmet.com/pdfs/Hub_Service_Manual.pdf

I don't see that as being smarty ....if those are the detailed specs. Then sobeit ....that is the facts then

 

[Racer X 69]

I torque them to 500 ft. pounds with a torque wrench, that is suggested torque by kenworth. the new ones break as well as the old ones.

And you are doing so with clean, dry threads?

Something I forgot to ask, are these Budd nuts and lugs, or the coined type with hub piloted wheels?

Iron, or aluminum hubs?

Are you pressing the studs in, or hammering them in? You aren't using the nuts to suck them in, are you?

 

[jostby]

The Technical Maintenance Council (division of the ATA) puts out a book called "Recommended Practices" (RP's) that gives guidelines for most everything on a truck. RP656 covers this. "If one stud breaks, then both studs on either side of the broken stud must also be replaced. If 2 or more studs are found to be broken on the same wheel end, then ALL studs must be replaced."

For what it's worth, I have found it takes very little to exceed the recomended 450-500ft lbs torque that is specified when using a 1" impact, about 2 good rattles after the nut snugs and you're over. We run the nuts on with a 1/2" impact then torque. We only use the 1" for removal.

 

[Racer X 69]

The Technical Maintenance Council (division of the ATA) puts out a book called "Recommended Practices" (RP's) that gives guidelines for most everything on a truck. RP656 covers this. "If one stud breaks, then both studs on either side of the broken stud must also be replaced. If 2 or more studs are found to be broken on the same wheel end, then ALL studs must be replaced."

When I was still at the power company I tried to get them to adopt the RP's, but met with resistance from the old timers who thought they kne it all.

Nothing like some friggen know it all to spoil your day.

For what it's worth, I have found it takes very little to exceed the recomended 450-500ft lbs torque that is specified when using a 1" impact, about 2 good rattles after the nut snugs and you're over. We run the nuts on with a 1/2" impact then torque. We only use the 1" for removal.

Same here.

 

[terrylamar]

When I was still at the power company I tried to get them to adopt the RP's, but met with resistance from the old timers who thought they kne it all.

Nothing like some friggen know it all to spoil your day.
Same here.

You too, huh?

 

[pop]

You too, huh?

I think me & RACER ARE BOTH OLD TIMERS LOL.

 

[Duck]

I think me & RACER ARE BOTH OLD TIMERS LOL.

 

[pop]

I think my & RACER ARE BOTH OLD TIMERS LOL.

IT IS NOT MY IT IS ME. NEED ANOTHER BEER LOL.

 

[Duck]

IT IS NOT MY IT IS ME. NEED ANOTHER BEER LOL.

Fixed

 

[Racer X 69]

I think me & RACER ARE BOTH OLD TIMERS LOL.

I'm gettin' close brother!

 

[GroceryHauler]

And you are doing so with clean, dry threads?

Something I forgot to ask, are these Budd nuts and lugs, or the coined type with hub piloted wheels?

Iron, or aluminum hubs?

Are you pressing the studs in, or hammering them in? You aren't using the nuts to suck them in, are you?

Is this a technical thread or a porn thread?

 

[Duck]

Is this a technical thread or a porn thread?

Both.

It's truck porn.

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