2 Cents on Most Reliable Truck?
- Thread starter MrHippo
- Start date
First off, welcome to the forum. Search around and you will see lots of comments regarding your question.
As for a dependable truck, everything from 04 to current (and some 03) is equipped with emissions. Dealers will try to tell you that a 04-07 is non emissions, but that is not true (they have EGR, which was full of problems). My suggestion is to avoid any emissions truck up to at least 2012, and I personally won't touch one older than 2015. I have a non emissions truck, and I will be watching how the newer trucks perform long term before making my decision on my next truck a few years down the road.
You can get the truck you are looking for, in the forum of a non emissions Glider, only it is a new truck. Fitzgerald sold T660's, not sure if they do anymore as KW is stopping production of them. That said, if they have them, you can get one with a 13 speed, and with a Cummins N-14 (rebuilt by Cummins). If your credit is good at the time you want to purchase, it is much easier to finance a Glider than it is a new truck from a dealer.
used, I would be looking at 03 or older, or an used Glider.
As for a dependable truck, everything from 04 to current (and some 03) is equipped with emissions. Dealers will try to tell you that a 04-07 is non emissions, but that is not true (they have EGR, which was full of problems). My suggestion is to avoid any emissions truck up to at least 2012, and I personally won't touch one older than 2015. I have a non emissions truck, and I will be watching how the newer trucks perform long term before making my decision on my next truck a few years down the road.
You can get the truck you are looking for, in the forum of a non emissions Glider, only it is a new truck. Fitzgerald sold T660's, not sure if they do anymore as KW is stopping production of them. That said, if they have them, you can get one with a 13 speed, and with a Cummins N-14 (rebuilt by Cummins). If your credit is good at the time you want to purchase, it is much easier to finance a Glider than it is a new truck from a dealer.
used, I would be looking at 03 or older, or an used Glider.
Yes and no. If you need to run out there regularly, you cannot unless you have a DPF installed. Not worth it to me. Beyond that, you can file for a 3 day pass, I think that is just once a year.
gearjammer
jammer
take my advice and just rip California out of your map book there are 47 other states that won't give you near the hassles that CA will.
MrHippo
New Member
Max_Truck
Member
I'm interested, have you already bought a truck? If not, take a look at this one 2015 Kenworth T680. These two are very similar and you are really down to a personal preference here. However, I took a tour of both and I found T680 more spacious and I don't know, just kinda felt its spirit, if you know what I mean.
Ontario Outlaw
Hozer Witta Hood
As an O/O I wouldn’t touch an emissions truck. Like @Mike said 2004-2014-ish was pretty rocky for emissions trucks. The newer ones may be better. Want proof? CAT quit building on the road motors for a reason.
As far as dependability, non-emission motors won’t derate, threaten a parked regen, plug DPFs, piss and moan about DEF, or any other bullshit. If it’s running, leave it running it’ll get you home.
I carry a scan tool. I have access to the same software the dealer does. If I’m on the road I can look up the exact same info as any mechanic.
We’ve had a couple of good discussions on preventative maintenance. In my opinion, it’s better to replace parts at home, before they fail. Instead of trying to maximize service life from a part and having it fail on the road.
Another wallet grabber are tow trucks. $750-1500 for a tow kinda hurts. Knock on wood mines not been on a hook yet.
I carry tools, spare parts and fluids. Buying fluids OTR is expensive. @mndriver argued that if your truck is well maintained you shouldn’t need spares and fluids on the truck. I see his point and agree with him
As far as dependability, non-emission motors won’t derate, threaten a parked regen, plug DPFs, piss and moan about DEF, or any other bullshit. If it’s running, leave it running it’ll get you home.
I carry a scan tool. I have access to the same software the dealer does. If I’m on the road I can look up the exact same info as any mechanic.
We’ve had a couple of good discussions on preventative maintenance. In my opinion, it’s better to replace parts at home, before they fail. Instead of trying to maximize service life from a part and having it fail on the road.
Another wallet grabber are tow trucks. $750-1500 for a tow kinda hurts. Knock on wood mines not been on a hook yet.
I carry tools, spare parts and fluids. Buying fluids OTR is expensive. @mndriver argued that if your truck is well maintained you shouldn’t need spares and fluids on the truck. I see his point and agree with him
ironpony
Professional Pot-Stirrer
For newer trucks, reliability goes to Freightliner/Westernstar trucks with the DD series engines. Comparable Pererbilt and Kenworth trucks are still having problems in fleet reliability ratings.
The emissions systems in heavy duty trucks require actual maintenance. They've become a lot more reliable, but if not taken care of can cause problems related in other posts. Unfortunately, many treat these systems like mufflers on a car... yeah, its down there - and no other thought is given. Left maintained, they can cause all sorts of performance issues, including derating. If you're going to pull freight in California, you will need a newer truck to comply with emissions laws.
If you don't have the resources for a 2012 or newer emissions truck, then look for a '03 or older truck that can be rebuilt and made road- worthy. '03 was the transition year after which trucks were equipped with EGR emission systems that started the trouble. Some worked well, others were a disaster - across both manufacturers and within the same model/engine/drivetrain types. '03s must be approached with caution because some were equipped with EGR engines as manufacturers ran out of stock on the older engines.
If you're buying a used truck, the mechanical condition is paramount. New tires, a shiny paint job mean nothing. Look for reasons not to buy the truck. The condition of the steering suspension and equipment will tell you a lot about how the truck was treated during its life. Download the trucks ECM, and review the report. Try to get an oil analysis before the oil is changed.
Good luck.
The emissions systems in heavy duty trucks require actual maintenance. They've become a lot more reliable, but if not taken care of can cause problems related in other posts. Unfortunately, many treat these systems like mufflers on a car... yeah, its down there - and no other thought is given. Left maintained, they can cause all sorts of performance issues, including derating. If you're going to pull freight in California, you will need a newer truck to comply with emissions laws.
If you don't have the resources for a 2012 or newer emissions truck, then look for a '03 or older truck that can be rebuilt and made road- worthy. '03 was the transition year after which trucks were equipped with EGR emission systems that started the trouble. Some worked well, others were a disaster - across both manufacturers and within the same model/engine/drivetrain types. '03s must be approached with caution because some were equipped with EGR engines as manufacturers ran out of stock on the older engines.
If you're buying a used truck, the mechanical condition is paramount. New tires, a shiny paint job mean nothing. Look for reasons not to buy the truck. The condition of the steering suspension and equipment will tell you a lot about how the truck was treated during its life. Download the trucks ECM, and review the report. Try to get an oil analysis before the oil is changed.
Good luck.
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Could not agree more
Uncle Birchy
Well-Known Member
I was there afew summers ago..
Them Hay Haulers seem to run 80s era Cabovers without "impunity"...
At Ontario TA seemed to be a crapload of "foreigners" in late 90s early 2000s trucks who IDLED "allday" and nobody seemed to give a crap
vaportrail
Well-Known Member
I know the cascadia I bounce around all day has been darn near bulletproof. since may 8th 2016
1 radiator (60K)
1 def sensor (240K) on back of tank froze and cracked after somebody topped off tank in 20 below weather
294k now knock on wood, no codes or lights other then above doesnt leak a drop or eat coolant
1 radiator (60K)
1 def sensor (240K) on back of tank froze and cracked after somebody topped off tank in 20 below weather
294k now knock on wood, no codes or lights other then above doesnt leak a drop or eat coolant
In an 05 or 06 ? Or in an older. Also how did you know they were Cats. Also depends on rears. Both are good motors but I can promise you a 12.7 doesn't have a prayer against a C15 and a 14l doesn't have much of a chanice either. We're those C12s or C13s you walked past ? Also what's the biggest 12.7 470 right ? 1550 or 1650 torque then it's 515 for the 14l is it more. A 3406E or C15 are very common in 500hp 1850lbfts and can be made into 600 hp's very easily.
I know where a 600hp C15 MBN is Wana put that Detroit to a test lmao just jokin. Although loaded to 90k gross. 600hp 18 speed 3.55s it's a left lane truck. On a hill it doesn't slow down.
mndriver
curmudgeon extraordinare
Kid, your enthusiasm will get you in trouble one day.
The guy who tuned my truck for me races that blue Pete.
It's also powered by a 12.7L Detroit. Cats ain't the only thing capable of putting out power.
My personal truck is no longer on the road. It was a 2007 century with a 14L series 60 putting 640/2400 out. It did it's job very well.
Due to an unfortunate event where it tried to occupy the same physical space as a bridge, it was retired.
This was before the nonwastegate turbo went in. It went up after that. I just never got a new Dyno run on it. So that's a 14L Detroit with a stock turbo, injectors and engine.
You really need to curb your enthusiasm.
The guy who tuned my truck for me races that blue Pete.
It's also powered by a 12.7L Detroit. Cats ain't the only thing capable of putting out power.
My personal truck is no longer on the road. It was a 2007 century with a 14L series 60 putting 640/2400 out. It did it's job very well.
Due to an unfortunate event where it tried to occupy the same physical space as a bridge, it was retired.
This was before the nonwastegate turbo went in. It went up after that. I just never got a new Dyno run on it. So that's a 14L Detroit with a stock turbo, injectors and engine.
You really need to curb your enthusiasm.
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