Vector Inverter on 2005 FREIGHTLINER CORONADO

[yuriy]

Hey guys! I am not sure if this is the place/forum that I am writing in, but if I am not, move it for me thanks! anyways I just bought a 2000WATT Vector Power Inverter, I am trying to get a mini-microwave to work and all that, and a laptop in my sleeper..anyways I have no clue if any of you guys around here have tried to install a inverter into a coronado, but if anyone has or knows how to, I would appreciate the help and the steps that someone might hand over.. in Coronado the batteries are located behind the cab, and for some hazardous reasons Vector only provides a 3' cable, that means I possibly JUST have enough cable from the batteries into the back of the cab, and from there its no biggie since I can use a small appliance extension cord to go with the mini-microwave. Has anyone ever done this type of work before? please and I mean please help me out with this!

Thanks again! and Merry Christmas 1 day late, but better then never hehe

 

[SilverSurfer]

Hey guys! I am not sure if this is the place/forum that I am writing in, but if I am not, move it for me thanks! anyways I just bought a 2000WATT Vector Power Inverter, I am trying to get a mini-microwave to work and all that, and a laptop in my sleeper..anyways I have no clue if any of you guys around here have tried to install a inverter into a coronado, but if anyone has or knows how to, I would appreciate the help and the steps that someone might hand over.. in Coronado the batteries are located behind the cab, and for some hazardous reasons Vector only provides a 3' cable, that means I possibly JUST have enough cable from the batteries into the back of the cab, and from there its no biggie since I can use a small appliance extension cord to go with the mini-microwave. Has anyone ever done this type of work before? please and I mean please help me out with this!

Thanks again! and Merry Christmas 1 day late, but better then never hehe

First, a 2000 watt inverter definitely needs to be direct wired to the batteries. Make no mistake, or believe otherwise. Next the main question which needs to be addressed is whether you are allowed to put a hole in the bunk. If you can...place your inverter under the bunk at a point which allows the cables to reach the batterys, and hook it up accordingly. A grommet MUST be placed around the cables at the hole in the bunk to prevent the cables from being cut into. DO NOT SKIP PUTTING A GROMMET ON THE CABLES. IT WILL RESULT IN A SERIOUS SITUATION.

If you are not allowed to put a hole in the bunk...you may need to install a battery in the side box. Connect your inverter to the batter, and utilize a set of jumper cables (Heavy Duty) to reach from your single battery to the truck's batteries out the side box door. Use a bungy to hold the side box door closed against the jumper cables when in use. REMEMBER TO UNHOOK THE JUMPER CABLES AND CLOSE SIDE BOX DOOR BEFORE PULLING OFF.

Hope that helps ya out.

-ss-

 

[yuriy]

hey, thanks for replying!! yeah I am now aware that a 2kWATT inverter needs to be directly hooked up to the batteries.
Here is my product: http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/59/5973074e-e8c3-4d12-974e-5059096a792b_300.jpg
Here are the cables that would make a direct connection between the inverter and the batteries(3 feet): http://65.118.245.21/product/vectorPowerInverterCablesVEC085D.jpg

and about the whole in the cab, I am not sure..I heard some say that manufactures leave some plug or whatever just incase a dealer or owner wants to install an inverter to the back, but I haven't got a great look at the back of the cab yet. By the way a grommet is that small little coin like washer thing right? I also assume I need to somehow if there isnt any hole in the cab yet to seal it up with something so the cold/heat wouldn't get inside the cab from it..I think 3 feet will be enough to get the inverter to the batteries, I will just put the inverter all the way to the back of the cab or the hole..anyways about the ground pin, what do I do with that? because I see a ground pin type thing..check the inverter out on google: VEC054D ( some info here: Vector 2000 Watt Power Inverter VEC054D ).

Thanks alot for helping out!

 

[SilverSurfer]

10-4...

The grommet is a rubber washer basically with a slit to get around the wires...this you are probably fairly familiar with. When you go to seal the area - do it from the inside and use a household caulk (window and trim). It'll make for easier removal if needed, and will do an excellent job of insulating the area. Don't worry about looks, just lay a large goop over the whole area...lol

About the ground pin. Run a ground wire from that pin to your bunk chassis. Pay close attention to not make that connection on the aluminum framing, but to the metal part of the chassis.

Not a hard job to accomplish, but it does take a little time to do it right.

Helping a brother driver whenever I can is what it's all about...even though you may not see it most of the time - trucking is a brotherhood, and we need to bring that back to the forefront. Greenhorn or not, you're now part of it...lol

-ss-

 

[yuriy]

SilverSurfer thanks alot for the help! yeah it does take some time to install it and all, but I guess in the end it will be worth it It's time for me to get some stuff in, ie microwave and all that nice stuff that other truckers have hehe but yeah thanks again for all the information, it's helpful!

and youre right about the brotherhood hehe. God bless you bro.

 

[SilverSurfer]

You're welcome, Yuri. And good luck with your trucking endeavor. You are going to find that having those little goodies will make a big difference in your bottom line.

Oh, FYI...ramon noodles take about 3 minutes in the micro (lol.) You'd be surprised how far you can stretch $100 dollars with a microwave in the truck.

-ss-

 

[FlatBroke]

and about the whole in the cab, I am not sure..I heard some say that manufactures leave some plug or whatever just incase a dealer or owner wants to install an inverter to the back, but I haven't got a great look at the back of the cab yet. By the way a grommet is that small little coin like washer thing right? I also assume I need to somehow if there isnt any hole in the cab yet to seal it up with something so the cold/heat wouldn't get inside the cab from it..I think 3 feet will be enough to get the inverter to the batteries, I will just put the inverter all the way to the back of the cab or the hole..anyways about the ground pin, what do I do with that? because I see a ground pin type thing..check the inverter out on google: VEC054D ( some info here: Vector 2000 Watt Power Inverter VEC054D ).

Thanks alot for helping out!

Are you an O/O? If not you may want to check with your company first to see if you are allowed to hook up that size inverter.

A lot of company's will allow this if their own mechanics hook it up, because there have been numerous fires caused by inverters being installed wrong.

Just make sure it is hooked up right....

But if you own the truck yourself, I say go for it. I have a friend who has the whole 9 yards hooked up in his truck. He calls me all the time telling me about the steak he just ate or the bacon and eggs he is fixing for breakfast..lol!

 

[yuriy]

You're welcome, Yuri. And good luck with your trucking endeavor. You are going to find that having those little goodies will make a big difference in your bottom line.

Oh, FYI...ramon noodles take about 3 minutes in the micro (lol.) You'd be surprised how far you can stretch $100 dollars with a microwave in the truck.

-ss-

Thank you again
and you are very right about the roman noodles, haha I can buy lets see if I can go into sams club, they sell like a 25 pack for real cheap, I can heat up all kind of stuff can't wait to actually install it, lol.

You got a microwave yourself?

 

[yuriy]

Are you an O/O? If not you may want to check with your company first to see if you are allowed to hook up that size inverter.

A lot of company's will allow this if their own mechanics hook it up, because there have been numerous fires caused by inverters being installed wrong.

Just make sure it is hooked up right....

But if you own the truck yourself, I say go for it. I have a friend who has the whole 9 yards hooked up in his truck. He calls me all the time telling me about the steak he just ate or the bacon and eggs he is fixing for breakfast..lol!

Yeah I am a O/O, I would never bother installing it with a company truck unless I get permission, but hey it's good to own your truck! hehe

Yes, thank you for making me aware of the fact that there have been accidents, my dad knows a good mechanic at a TA shop he does everything for my dads freightliner, he'll help me out if I need something.

DONT MAKE ME JEALOUS YET haha, I am feeling for a steak now, and I am home and we don't have any! your buddy is lucky hehe

 

[tesla4all]

When wiring an inverter you ALWAYS want to make your connections as short as possible directly to your battery bank. I use lead in for residential construction as it has 4 lines within a flexible cable housing. At one end strip each wire back about 1/2" to 3/4" and join each wire together with another so that you have two connections (one positive lead, one negative). Crimp on a lug connector to each to connect to your battery leads....would do well to solder these too to prevent corrosion. I then heat shrink this connection (remember to slide shrink tubing onto cable before crimping and solder). The priority here is to do everything that you can to weatherproof your connections. I then come out of the battery box....incorporate a drip loop in the line and then go through a pre-cut hole in the cab floor (I mount my inverters under-bunk) or use a hole saw to cut a neat hole in the floor where i use a "neer connector" also known as a ROMEX connector http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=44996-1552C-500&lpage=none
Run your line through..clamp the line....seal with silicone if you wish..Then hook up your inverter. You have 4 lines to connect. On the 2500W I use it has 4 connections 2 each pos and neg. I use a non oxidizing paste on all my electrical connections to help prevent...well oxidation which leads to voltage and current drop not to mention heat buildup...and yes...FIRE!!! MAKE SURE THAT YOU CONNECT THE POS AND NEG LINES CORRECTLY!!!!!! Check once...twice..three times if necessary. Take your time and double check everything before you make your final connection to the battery. Now, ground your chassis, make your battery connection, connect some small electrical item to test with (small light, a/c phone charger ect.) Now you should be washed down with elation!....110v in the truck...how liberating!...