steer tires and load rating

which load rating do you prefer?

  • G

  • H


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Rauner, Ryan,... Close enough. Rauner will probably end up in prison too. For being a douchebag.

Ryan was just corrupt in general but mostly because his little scam with selling CDL licenses to untrained people in exchange for bribes or campaign donations led to the death of an entire family when one of those unqualified CDL holders caused an accident in Wisconsin.

If I remember right (I was just a kid at the time) the truck's mud flap bracket fell off & was hit by that family's minivan & it punctured the gas tank and they all burned to death except for the father.
 
Im going for the 16 plys. Good luck finding Michelins in a 16 ply out on the road. I have a 12,500 axle and in the liquid world, we need it.
 
H


We carry APU certifications that allow an additional 600? Lbs on steer axle. Most of the time we scale steers at 12,500+/- so the 16 ply is our logical choice.

I'm now purchasing another set of Michelin steers to replace the Goodyear crap. 10 tires all doing the same scallop and peel and the manufacturer says the tires are not the problem......:mad:
DubbleD, trust me, your tires are not the problem. Scalloping is normally caused by imbalance. The question is, what is causing a premature imbalance. A GOOD alignment shop can tell you. BTW, don't believe that crap about once they start to wear you can't stop it.
 
DubbleD, trust me, your tires are not the problem. Scalloping is normally caused by imbalance. The question is, what is causing a premature imbalance. A GOOD alignment shop can tell you. BTW, don't believe that crap about once they start to wear you can't stop it.
Scalloping on my inside front right drive was caused by bad bearings.
 
DubbleD, trust me, your tires are not the problem. Scalloping is normally caused by imbalance. The question is, what is causing a premature imbalance. A GOOD alignment shop can tell you. BTW, don't believe that crap about once they start to wear you can't stop it.
On 5 different tractors, all 387's, with varying miles?

Shop couldn't find any other explanations.
 
On 5 different tractors, all 387's, with varying miles?

Shop couldn't find any other explanations.
Science project:
Put centramatics on one truck.
Run another one's steers at 110 psi instead of 120.
Leave the other 3 alone as the "control group" & run em for a while & see what happens.
 
Science project:
Put centramatics on one truck.
Run another one's steers at 110 psi instead of 120.
Leave the other 3 alone as the "control group" & run em for a while & see what happens.
Michelin 16 ply's ...."H"

Problem solved...and tested to about 500,000 miles TD.
 
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If your bearings were that bad the seal would be leaking. Most tire issues are due to inflation or lack of.
Two years ago, the ABS brake sensor kept tripping and tossing a code. When the mechanic pulled the tires off to get to the sensor, he noticed the hub felt a little loose and came to get me. He told me that if he removed the hub, the intact and not-leaking seal would have to be replaced. I said take it off anyway. He did. The bearings were shot. Inner and outer bearing, along with races, were scored up. There were metal shards all over the inside of the hub.

Since that axle end was in such bad shape, I asked them to open the other end as well. It was in the same condition as the first. There were no weird tire wear or leaking wheel seals. But there were bearings inside that were a few hundred miles from welding themselves.


In this most recent case last week, a blown wheel seal was the symptom that got it fixed. I thought the scalloping was from incorrect tire pressure. I ended up having the entire axle end removed and replaced.

Point is, bearings do not always cause leaking wheel seals, although they often do. Best way to check for bad bearings, in my experience, is to jack the axle end up and shake the wheel. If it moves independently of the axle, you might consider getting an eyeball on those bearings.
 
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Focus people!

Why can't we just blame GoodYear for making a buncha bad tires?

Why does everything have to be overthunk?

This is fact: I switched to Michelin 16 ply (credit to @Tim ) and the problem as solved.

Can't argue fact.


....oh wait, it's ....us.
 
Focus people!

Why can't we just blame GoodYear for making a buncha bad tires?

Why does everything have to be overthunk?

This is fact: I switched to Michelin 16 ply (credit to @Tim ) and the problem as solved.

Can't argue fact.


....oh wait, it's ....us.
Yes I had a pal tell me about Goodyear steer failing, I have heard that from others too. I only trust Michelins on steers.
 
@Injun you are very very very very did I say very lucky person! If them bearings were that bad and no seal leaking you are very fortunate!

@DubbleD yea I'll agree Goodyear are junk! I have a set that are going to be lift axle tires. I'm afraid they may cause a bounce back there also so they may get scrapped?
 
Well an update to the tires.....

Got the R283 steer tires. At 7200 miles, the left one chunked out the sidewall. (Picture taken of it still inflated.)

The short of it, bridgestone fully warrantied the tire to include the cost of the road service to replace it. Got the warranty check finally last week.

Neither the field rep or the engineers had seen a failure like that. It went back to the factory rather quickly.

I'm still trying to figure out what's going to take the goo off the truck. 2 months later the shit is still sticky.
 
Never tried to find the LRJ in any normal sizes, just the low profiles we use on carhaulers, 275/70 & 295/60 the most prevalent.

Most car haulers and step decks should go with 25570R22.5. The reason being is this size is really made as a heavy duty 16 ply tire for this application. 275's are very similar, but they are more difficult to find which means can be expensive. 29575r22.5 is normally 14ply, not very many 16plys, I always carry a few, but with the weight of step deck or car carrier you need to stay 16ply.
 

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