DDEC IV, StopEngine, CheckEngine, both lights come on, oil,water,etc checks good, lights go out when cruising down highway, in town, I can turn on the engine fan and they do not come on. I suspect a bad sensor, does anyone know which sensor? Also, in heavy rain the lights came on and later, when I turned on the engine fan, went out! ??
sensor
- Thread starter hhamp000
- Start date
Hi Herb,
I think all that is controlled by the computer behind your dash with all the gauges. You can reset the computer by taking the wire off the battery. It's a small wire. Just take it off for a second and give it a try. Also look for the cables running down to your ECM for any rubbing. During the night you can turn your headlights on and wiggle the wires and tap the computer behind the dash. Wiggle the wires under the hood also. The computer behind the dash has a metal cover on it.
I think all that is controlled by the computer behind your dash with all the gauges. You can reset the computer by taking the wire off the battery. It's a small wire. Just take it off for a second and give it a try. Also look for the cables running down to your ECM for any rubbing. During the night you can turn your headlights on and wiggle the wires and tap the computer behind the dash. Wiggle the wires under the hood also. The computer behind the dash has a metal cover on it.
mndriver
curmudgeon extraordinare
The memory on these computers are not volatile. They are permanent. I have a 2007 century that glitched out on me the same way they you are describing. Turned out to be the plastic loom between the ECM and the firewall was worn threw. In several places. After replacing the wiring harness, there are 4 "active codes" in my dash. Not in the engine ECM, the chassis CPC. The fun thing is, they show for the auto trans controller, the step controller and another item I know I don't have. I run a 13 spd and a century. The trans controller is for the ultrashift and the step controller is for the Argosy cabover.
I found the actual bad harness by grabbing the harness at different bends and pushing and pulling the harness. And seeing when/if it caused the problem to occur.
Probably one of the biggest pains to diagnose. You swear everyone is giving you a line of shit and not helping. But for each vehicle it's similar but different because it wears out in a different place giving slightly different groups of problems.
But your problems are consistent with a firewall to ECM wiring harness. And no amount of plugging in with a computer will find that. No amount of chasing codes will solve that either. Because it's not really a code issue.
Finally got help from New Town Truck Repair in Alma, Ar, the wiring is bad between the dash plug and ecm, hooked directly to ecm and there were no current codes, I had guessed that it might be the low-coolant sensor in the radiator and had already changed it, This seemed to cure the problem as it has not happened since. Hope it is fixed as this is a "trying" event!!!!
Tazz, this harness is very expensive, mechanic says to run and if problem returns then we will try to repair it but could take a lot of time, so if we can't fix it in a short time, I'm going to replace it with a new one. I am very frugal so will try save money, {sometimes that doesn't work}!!!
mndriver
curmudgeon extraordinare
Not a matter of if, just when it will give him more problems.
Every place there is a sharp bend on that harness looks like this. The twisted orange/green pair are your data link that allows the ECM to communicate with the PCP in the cab. It is a low voltage/low amp digital signal. Any "repair" to it, allows the signal to get bad/ghost etc and cause you fits in the operation. So "splicing" in a repair is foolish and will likely just cause more bigger issues later.
Yeah, the harness is $600+ plus labor to install. Mine took me a day to remove and another day to install it. But in the 2 1/2 years since I installed it, I've never had another issue.
Every place there is a sharp bend on that harness looks like this. The twisted orange/green pair are your data link that allows the ECM to communicate with the PCP in the cab. It is a low voltage/low amp digital signal. Any "repair" to it, allows the signal to get bad/ghost etc and cause you fits in the operation. So "splicing" in a repair is foolish and will likely just cause more bigger issues later.
Yeah, the harness is $600+ plus labor to install. Mine took me a day to remove and another day to install it. But in the 2 1/2 years since I installed it, I've never had another issue.
I'm an ex engineer and I can assure you splicing does not effect any signals.
mndriver
curmudgeon extraordinare
Keep telling yourself that.
Tazz
Infidel
Just the principal of flow would tell you a splice is slower and more resistant. These thing s sense in milliamps right? Any fluctuation is supposed to indicate a signal.
@hhamp000 Just me I would be looking around now for the best price I could find and put it in next hometime, Just me but if it decides to take a poop about midnight in Wisconsin on Dec 31st .........
@hhamp000 Just me I would be looking around now for the best price I could find and put it in next hometime, Just me but if it decides to take a poop about midnight in Wisconsin on Dec 31st .........
I'm not even going to get into this. I've done this crap with the CAN bus for longer then I can remember. No milliamps. It's a series of ones and zeros within a protocol just like a serial cable, parallel cable or any other cable. You can splice the hell out of it with 100's of splices and it's still going to work. Believe me, I've done this my whole life.
What next. Take his CDL away for the rest of his life cause he's going to kill someone because he spliced a wire?
What next. Take his CDL away for the rest of his life cause he's going to kill someone because he spliced a wire?
Tazz
Infidel
I have no idea @Skateboard, but I do know when a computer gets codes like low voltage for parameters and the guys from Cummins say it was corrosion building around the outside of a wire causing the low voltage it has to be measuring some kind of voltage.
There are probably some basic communication of 1's and 0's but I have had trucks with minor electrical variances coming from sensors shut me down for 4 days in a snow storm. Me I am not taking the chance but feel free to.
There are probably some basic communication of 1's and 0's but I have had trucks with minor electrical variances coming from sensors shut me down for 4 days in a snow storm. Me I am not taking the chance but feel free to.
mndriver
curmudgeon extraordinare
in a clean room computer environment, I'd be right there with you splicing everyone of those serial cables.
But when it comes to a harsh, salt laden, moisture loaded vibration environment of an engine and heavy duty truck, replace the harness and be done with it.
But when it comes to a harsh, salt laden, moisture loaded vibration environment of an engine and heavy duty truck, replace the harness and be done with it.
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