Rigmaster Coolant Overflow Tank Modification

8978

** Commie Express **
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The tiny little coolant overflow take inside the unit is a problem with many units. If the coolant falls below a certain level the engine will shut down. Usually when it's 20 below zero in North Dakota. The coolant comes out from road vibration through the vent hole. After getting sick of putting 2oz of coolant in I modified mine. Rigmaster has since created a larger tank but it's still not big enough. It's just means it doesn't happen that often but it still happens.

The tank you see is a lawnmower gas tank. The bracket holding the tank on is also the bracket that held it onto the lawnmower and worked great. Just drill a hole in the side and run the rubber tube inside and connect where the small tank hose was connected. Go to Home Depot and get a rubber grommet to line the hole in the side or it can cut the hose.


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I take it Rigmasters are not tied into the trucks coolant? How do you keep the engine warm in winter temps?


Never thought that little motor could circulate enough to keep the big motor warm, but Big g sure did.
 
I can run just my Tri-Pac in the winter even down to -20*F and my big engine will still start.
 
They always said down to 10 F then idle the big motor.

I guess you could put in a block heater in that set up.
 
If we idled the big motor in conditions like that, we'd start it in Dec and not shut it down until March.

I have a block heater in the oil cooler as well as an arctic kit on my Tri-pac. Running the tri-pac, I start the big engine, I am already at a temp of about 80-100 *F on the temp gage. Even sub-zero.

My bigger issue is the fuel. Will it go below it's pour point and turn to ice with all this stupid bio-mass crap they are putting into it.
 
I take it Rigmasters are not tied into the trucks coolant? How do you keep the engine warm in winter temps?


Never thought that little motor could circulate enough to keep the big motor warm, but Big g sure did.
Internal combustion engines are something like 30% efficient. Meaning that only 30% of the energy in the fuel gets transferred into mechanical energy, and the other 70% is converted to heat, or simply unused (unburnt fuel in the exhaust). And that mechanical energy then has to be transferred to electrical energy via another less than 100% efficient device, then used to run the block heater or air conditioner.

So I'd tend to think that it would make more sense to reclaim some of that wasted thermal energy by tying the APU's cooling system into the truck's. If you intend to heat the big engine, then why the hell not?

This would make sense even in warmer weather, since the big engine will run more efficiently if it's already somewhat warmed up when it starts. Especially with today's emissions systems that clog up the DPF if you idle it very long, but blow more unburnt fuel into the emissions components when it's running cold.

In turn, it can be set up so the big engine also heats the APU engine so when the APU has been shut down all day while you blast it with freezing cold air for 600 miles in the winter, it'll already be mostly warmed up so it'll start up easier & run more efficiently right after startup.

But it would mean more potential leaks, and piping hot coolant about 10 feet to the engine & insulating that line so heat isn't dissipated until it reaches the big engine.
 
I replaced all my coolant lines with Gates Green Label and new clamps. I am trying to get ahold of some oetiker clamps to put on instead of those stupid screw clamps.

Use a high quality hose. Mine was I don't know how old and blew on the road 50 miles from the house. At least I had valves I could shut the lines off and enough coolant in the side box to get me home.
 
Since the rigmaster provides electrical power, you can plug it into your block heater.

In very cold temps, I have to hit "start" - that is, to cycle the glow plugs two or three times and it finally cranks. The glow plugs warm for 15 seconds each pre-start cycle.

The threads about rigmasters, not a pissing contest over which APU is the bestest.
 
Internal combustion engines are something like 30% efficient. Meaning that only 30% of the energy in the fuel gets transferred into mechanical energy, and the other 70% is converted to heat, or simply unused (unburnt fuel in the exhaust). And that mechanical energy then has to be transferred to electrical energy via another less than 100% efficient device, then used to run the block heater or air conditioner.

So I'd tend to think that it would make more sense to reclaim some of that wasted thermal energy by tying the APU's cooling system into the truck's. If you intend to heat the big engine, then why the hell not?

This would make sense even in warmer weather, since the big engine will run more efficiently if it's already somewhat warmed up when it starts. Especially with today's emissions systems that clog up the DPF if you idle it very long, but blow more unburnt fuel into the emissions components when it's running cold.

In turn, it can be set up so the big engine also heats the APU engine so when the APU has been shut down all day while you blast it with freezing cold air for 600 miles in the winter, it'll already be mostly warmed up so it'll start up easier & run more efficiently right after startup.

But it would mean more potential leaks, and piping hot coolant about 10 feet to the engine & insulating that line so heat isn't dissipated until it reaches the big engine.
The coolant lines from the Tri-Pak I had on that '09 Shaker were plumbed to the truck's engine. I never had trouble starting it in sub-zero North Dakota winters. This was a feature of the truck, not of the APU.

As for fuel gelling, never had that problem. The fuel lines near the engine were warmed by the coolant heat exchange to the engine block and the Tri-Pak's use of fuel from the tank stirred the fuel. At least, that's how it was explained to me.

I thought the Tri-Pak was a generator of sorts, since it acted as a battery tender as well as provide power to the A/C and a large inverter..maybe mistaken?

I'm not running Rigmasters down. I simply have no experience with them. I can only speak to experience I have.
 
The Tri-Pak does not have a generator, just an alternator to charge the batteries. They install an inverter to run your other things. The Rigmaster has two 20 amp circuits. Many people have block heaters and a switch to turn it on and off. You don't need to run a block heater all night. One hour works great. I was told you don't need to run a block heater at all if your truck is a fast starter and your batteries are good. Both are true in my case.

Injun is right in both cases and I've been told by many mechanics and other people the same. If your batteries are good your engine should start unless you have other issues. If your fuel is treated that should not be a problem either. I have first hand experience with cold nights and starting. I don't use my block heater anymore. Years ago I woke up to my Rigmaster working hard. Come to find out the block heater element was shorted out and the wire was melted. That was the last time I ever used it.
 
I take it Rigmasters are not tied into the trucks coolant? How do you keep the engine warm in winter temps?
Never thought that little motor could circulate enough to keep the big motor warm, but Big g sure did.

No, it's not tied into the coolant system. The Rigmaster has more then enough power to run the block heater. I posted in another thread I don't run the block heater anymore.
 
The Tri-Pak does not have a generator, just an alternator to charge the batteries. They install an inverter to run your other things. The Rigmaster has two 20 amp circuits. Many people have block heaters and a switch to turn it on and off. You don't need to run a block heater all night. One hour works great. I was told you don't need to run a block heater at all if your truck is a fast starter and your batteries are good. Both are true in my case.

Injun is right in both cases and I've been told by many mechanics and other people the same. If your batteries are good your engine should start unless you have other issues. If your fuel is treated that should not be a problem either. I have first hand experience with cold nights and starting. I don't use my block heater anymore. Years ago I woke up to my Rigmaster working hard. Come to find out the block heater element was shorted out and the wire was melted. That was the last time I ever used it.
If you have the ability to preheat the big engine without it actually running, that's great & there really aint much reason not to. Your pre-emissions engine can still benefit from having the oil already warmed up, unless it's one of those oil pan heaters that slowly cook the oil. Cold engines also crank slower & draw more amps from the batteries & put a heavier load on the starter.

Newer trucks with all that emissions crap on them can benefit a LOT from a block heater. Even in the summer. Cold engines don't burn the fuel as efficiently as when they're warm, especially a diesel that relies on heat to ignite the fuel instead of a spark. So when they're cold, they blow tons of crap into the particulate filter & will clog it up sooner. If it's already somewhat warm when you start it, well that's less crap ending up in that filter. Obviously a block heater or warm coolant from an APU engine isn't going to keep the big engine at operating temperature but the closer you are to it, the better.

I posted in another thread I don't run the block heater anymore.
No you posted that in this one. That's what happens when you have 10 active threads that all have "Rigmaster" in the title. ;)
 

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