Why are the tits longer on a dry van in the receptacle?

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
Heck for $170 I'm rewiring my own too. I ain't worth no $362 an hour.
I'd buy and entire brand new 3-in-1 hose/wiring setup for $170..


you can get just a pigtail for as little as $45
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Premium
Risk of a CSA impact wasn't justifiable. Flashing lights like that are nothing but a bat signal for DOT to mess with you.
Keep th' lights happy, and th' LEOs be happy!

A new pigtail will be cheaper in the long run than replacing ends every year.
 

Electric Chicken

Well-Known Member
Premium
I'd buy and entire brand new 3-in-1 hose/wiring setup for $170..


you can get just a pigtail for as little as $45
For $45 I'm replacing the whole thing.

$170 makes me try a cheaper fix first.
 

Injun

Rabid Squaw
Staff member
Premium
Every year???

:confused-96:

I ain't never needed to replace a pigtail every year. Ever.
You don't run Washington State nearly as much as I do, either. That deicer crap they put on the roads that turns everything black is corrosive and invasive.
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Premium
You don't run Washington State nearly as much as I do, either. That deicer crap they put on the roads that turns everything black is corrosive and invasive.
They use that stuff in quite a few more states than just Washington. If you're finding that green corrosion on pigtail wiring that you've opened up and repaired, I'd suggest that just by opening up the wiring on the pigtail, you've created a path for the deicer to enter the wiring and cause the corrosion. That's an argument right there for replacing the entire cable assembly instead of repairing it, to prevent intrusion of deicer fluid.

Something to think about...
 

Joker11

Well-Known Member
They use that stuff in quite a few more states than just Washington. If you're finding that green corrosion on pigtail wiring that you've opened up and repaired, I'd suggest that just by opening up the wiring on the pigtail, you've created a path for the deicer to enter the wiring and cause the corrosion. That's an argument right there for replacing the entire cable assembly instead of repairing it, to prevent intrusion of deicer fluid.

Something to think about...
I always use the heatshrink with glue in it when I make cables. Also, use some No-Ox on the terminals and dip the bare wire end in it before inserting into a connector. Saves a LOT of trouble down the line.

Find a can of dielectric grease and be friends with it. I use enough that I got it in a cheeze wiz style dispensor.

I open up all the quick connects and squirt it in there. Water can’t get in if there is nowhere to go.
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
I always use the heatshrink with glue in it when I make cables. Also, use some No-Ox on the terminals and dip the bare wire end in it before inserting into a connector. Saves a LOT of trouble down the line.

Find a can of dielectric grease and be friends with it. I use enough that I got it in a cheeze wiz style dispensor.

I open up all the quick connects and squirt it in there. Water can’t get in if there is nowhere to go.
No-ox?
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Premium
I always use the heatshrink with glue in it when I make cables. Also, use some No-Ox on the terminals and dip the bare wire end in it before inserting into a connector. Saves a LOT of trouble down the line.

Find a can of dielectric grease and be friends with it. I use enough that I got it in a cheeze wiz style dispensor.

I open up all the quick connects and squirt it in there. Water can’t get in if there is nowhere to go.
As much abuse as a trailer pigtail gets, going with a replacement cable assembly just makes sense. For general wiring on any other part of the truck, I'm all for repair with appropriate precautions to keep road deicer/brine out of the repairs.
 

Joker11

Well-Known Member
Ours is called No-Ox. It comes in a metal tin so you can use a heat gun to melt it and dip parts in it. Or it comes in a tube you can squeeze out. It sucks in a cool datacenter when it’s cold though. Hard as heck to squeeze out. It looks like axle grease. But thicker.
 
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Duck

Talks to Mice
Supporter
Hard as heck to squeeze out. It looks like axle grease. But thicker.
Like a tube of gasket maker that was used once, then stored for a year?

I just had to scrape that shit out of a tool box drawer the other day cuz the cap popped off somehow. Pain in the ass.
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
$45 every year or $7 every year with less hassle.

No brainer for me.
Light cord ends are $9 each up here. I didn’t look at the receptacle cost. Two new light cord ends and one receptacle plus almost a whole tube of dialectric grease we back in business like a greased pig on fair day

48194 48195
Green fuzzies on the truck side. Didn’t see any obvious issues on the trailer side
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
48197
Ok so how the **** do you set up your lines for a ****ing van?

Every clocksucking corner the red glad hand starts leaking.

The kingpin setting is deeper. So I added another clamp farther down on the lines to keep the lines off the catwalk.

Doesn’t matter which clamp I use for the spring it wants to pull on the red gladhand

I set up my lines last winter with a clocksucking rolltite. Turned all the way one way then turned all the way the other way. Tightened the clamp and had no issues until now. Looked like a ****ing idiot ****ing around in the yard jackknifing one way then the next. But it worked step flat or rolltite I had no issues with my lines

WHY is all the line connections on the corner of these ****ing things instead of in the center of the trailer like a normal ****ing human bean would put them?

I guess maybe shove my 5th wheel back? Gain me six inches anyway?
 
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